Balmain Opens First Fine Jewelry Corner in Italy in Milan Boutique
- Oops!Something went wrong.Please try again later.
MILAN — Balmain’s first fine jewelry corner in Italy opened in the brand’s boutique in Milan’s Via Montenapoleone on Thursday, ahead of the city’s Design Week.
The collection was launched in the spring of 2022.
More from WWD
“This signals the importance of Milan for the brand and its relevant position globally,” said Rosario Toscano, chief executive officer of Adorisa Group, which produces the jewelry, and of Akoni Group. Toscano was named to the role in January 2023, succeeding François Delage.
A new space dedicated to the brand’s jewelry is placed on the ground floor of the boutique with window displays in contrasting black and gold.
The Milan store opened in April 2018, also before Design Week, covering 3,024 square feet over two floors.
For the boutique, creative director Olivier Rousteing worked with three young architects from Paris’ Studio AMV — Anna Philippou, Marie-Charlotte Prosperi-Fouchard and Victoire Guerlay — re-creating a hôtel particulier for the store, focusing on the Parisian roots of the brand.
Toscano said the collection so far has been selectively distributed, first launched in the New York and Paris Balmain boutiques, but revealed that it will also be available at the brand’s Shanghai and Los Angeles stores by the end of the year, after some renovation of the units.
The goal is to expand “and come out of the Balmain boutiques,” said Toscano, while remaining exclusive, eyeing about 200 doors in the world.
The collection is currently distributed through six online partners, from Net-a-porter to Farfetch, and 18 doors of specialty stores in countries such as the U.S., Canada and the U.K.
Balmain’s fine jewelry is made in French laboratories, with ethical, recycled 18-karat gold, conflict-free and traceable precious stones, underscored Toscano. To further grow this segment, he is planning to add some production sites in Italy’s storied goldsmith hub of Valenza.
He also revealed that Balmain will introduce white gold pieces for the next holiday season. “There is a strong request,” explained Toscano, “and we are planning a deeper penetration in the category.”
The executive said jewelry is “very appealing to the younger generations, who are not that familiar with established and storied jewelry specialists.” Toscano also contended that the segment is attractive to existing Balmain customers, who already know the brand and its signature designs. “Jewelry is increasingly an integral part of the brand,” he said.
To be sure, the bold designs are entirely in sync with Rousteing’s style and fashion sense and Toscano emphasized the designer’s involvement in the category — as in the eyewear collections.
The Emblem collection stands out with its yellow gold, diamonds, onyx and tsavorites from Africa, which refers to the Balmain coat of arms, the two winged lions and the crown, and the masterful embroideries of one of Rousteing’s most influential runways, the Fabergé collection of 2012.
An Emblem cuff retails at 31,000 euros.
The Labyrinth collection reproduces the pattern first introduced in 1970 and originally inspired by the intricate mazes of France’s Renaissance gardens. The motif blends the initials of the house founder into a repetitive geometry. Fashioned from yellow gold and set with diamonds, the Labyrinth cuff, for example, retails at 16,000 euros.
Entry prices for rings range from 2,350 to 2,500 euros.
Bracelets and necklaces embellished with onyx beads are the brand’s bestsellers, said Toscano. He also noted how Rousteing has been successfully selling the concept of the single earring.
Toscano said Rousteing is succeeding in “combining the history of the brand with more contemporary elements.”
Before joining Akoni, Toscano was global managing director of Dita Eyewear where he was responsible for all aspects of the Dita and Thom Browne eyewear brands.
Adorisa Group was established in Paris in 2021, helmed by Delage, a former De Beers jewelry CEO.
Led by Delage and Albert Bensoussan, previously CEO of the luxury watches and jewelry division at Kering, Adorisa is part of Alsara Investments Group, whose holdings includes Akoni, the maker of Balmain and Valentino eyewear.
Alsara Investment Group was founded by Rachid Mohamed Rachid, who is also CEO of Mayhoola, the owner of Balmain and of Valentino.
Best of WWD
