Azzaro Couture Fall 2020
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Olivier Theyskens unveiled his first couture creations for Azzaro via an edgy, retro-tinged music video featuring Belgian singer Sylvie Kreusch.
“It just came naturally to me,” Theyskens told WWD, explaining that on the first day in Azzaro’s studio, he sketched a series of dresses based on house icons.
“I wanted to really use the heritage of the house as the idea of the thematic behind my designs. There is a notion of elegance and a connection to some of the past decades, but I wanted this as a very soft, really discreet bridge with that,” he continued. “I was very happy to focus on metallic and metal-connected shines, and also architectural black.”
With Azzaro’s longstanding link to music and film stars in mind, Theyskens gave carte blanche to Kreusch and director Lukas Dhont to spotlight the fashion.
In the three-minute film, Kreusch performs “Seedy Tricks” while wearing a selection of Azzaro looks in darkness, on a stage and a staircase. Hair flying, she strikes poses and sings while imagery speeds up or slows down, sometimes bathed in moody red light.
Azzaro’s signature three-ring motif, reworked through Theyskens’ lens, features among the sophisticated designs. There’s the ankle-length, form-fitting, black velvet dress on which the rings appear vertically, outlined with crystal- and pearl-encrusted embroidery.
Theyskens also crafted a long, softly tailored coat that comes in triple black crepe or in jacquard with a golden motif.
“It’s the idea of making sophisticated clothes without too many seams, with a sort of simplicity behind the construction,” the designer said. “For most of these dresses my focus was really about drape and the ease of the wearer.”
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