How to Avoid Damaging Your Hair While Wearing Protective Styles, According to Hairstylists

Protective styles are often praised for their ability to help retain hair length, maintain moisture, and reduce breakage. However, if you are a protective style devotee (like myself), you’ll know that caring for your natural hair while wearing braids, twists, or faux locs is crucial. While protective styles give you a break from day-to-day styling and shield your hair from the elements, failing to tend to your hair and scalp can lead to your protective style causing more harm than good.

To avoid damaging your hair (or edges) while wearing a protective style, we turned to the experts for advice. Ahead, seasoned hairstylists weigh in on how to keep your hair healthy before, during, and after protective styles.

Meet Our Expert

• Angela Stevens is a celebrity hairstylist and the co-creator of Cantu Protective Styles by Angela.

• Brendnetta Ashley is a textured hair specialist and a member of the Schwarzkopf digital artistic team.

• Edward James is a multi-award-winning hairdresser and salon owner. He also co-founded the online e-commerce site and platform The Hair Consult.

Avoid Installing Extra-Tight Hairstyles

Whether you're getting braids or faux locs, refrain from installing the style too tight.
"Any style that is too tight will cause breakage," Ashley says. "The only way to avoid this is to use less tension when styling or to leave a small portion of the hairline out."

When working with a stylist, you may be hesitant to tell them they're gripping your hair too harshly; however, speaking up is important. "If it feels too tight, something isn't right," Stevens says. "Listen to your body and speak up when the tension is causing pain. Pain is the first indication that the style might cause damage to your hair over time."

Moisturize Your Hair

Moisturizing your scalp and hair is the best way to prevent dryness, itchiness, and flakiness. Before getting a protective style, prep your hair with moisture-enhancing products. For long-lasting moisture retention after shampooing, use a product like OurX Treatment Leave-In ($36). It repairs and strengthens dry, damaged, and weakened hair, enhancing softness without weighing it down.

While wearing your protective style, use lightweight sprays regularly to ensure your scalp and hair remain conditioned and soothed. Try Sunday II Sunday's Daily Leave-In Conditioner Spray ($31) or Pattern's Hydrating Hair Mist ($19).

Care For Your Scalp

You should wash your hair while wearing a protective style, especially if you plan to keep it in for several weeks. Using cleansing products that can be applied directly to your scalp makes it easy. "Scalp health can be enhanced by using gentle exfoliating treatments to remove buildup and applying lightweight oils to maintain moisture balance without clogging the pores, which can inhibit new hair growth," James says.

He recommends Oribe's Serene Scalp Thickening Treatment Spray ($76), a powerful treatment that refreshes, hydrates, and balances the scalp. Scalp care products like Taliah Waajid Refresh And So Clean Dry Gel Shampoo ($10) and Mielle Rosemary Mint Scalp & Edge Cleansing Oil ($10) are also great options.

Use Satin or Silk Hair Accessories

How you care for your hair at night can also help you avoid damage to your hair or edges. Stevens recommends protecting your hair at night by wearing a silk or satin scarf or bonnet gently around the hair. She also recommends silk or satin pillowcases. "They're amazing for hair preservation," she adds. "I wouldn't advise using cotton accessories as they can be very drying and harmful to your hair. The friction of cotton can cause breakage at the hairline."

Don't Wear Updos Too Soon

Most protective styles can be styled in many ways—and buns are one of the most popular options. However, you may want to wait a while before putting your braids, locs, or twists in an updo, as the style can put a lot of tension on your scalp and follicles. "Give your hair a few days before pulling your hair up or back in ponytails and updos," Stevens says.

To ease tension, she recommends giving yourself scalp massages (using a gentle tool like the Curlsmith Scalp Massager, $12). If you aren't experiencing tenderness or tightness, feel free to style your hair in an updo (but don't wear the style too long).

Don’t Wear the Style Too Long

Everyone has a different opinion on how long a protective style should be worn, but Ashley recommends not wearing braids, locs, or twists for more than eight weeks. "Leaving in a protective style for longer than you should can result in buildup on your scalp because you aren't able to cleanse it thoroughly," she adds.

Protective styles also put tension on your hair and scalp, which can lead to breakage over time. "A protective style shouldn't break your hair, but leaving it in for too long can," Ashley notes.

Remove Build-Up From Edge Control

Even if you use an edge control with hydrating ingredients, you need to cleanse your edges to avoid build-up. "Most edge controls contain alcohol, so cleansing your hairline can help prevent the build-up that makes your hair susceptible to breakage," Ashley says.

As far as which edge control to use? James says Aveda's Humectant Pomade ($35) is one of his favorites. "It keeps hair hydrated and provides hold without hardening," he says. "A soft brush is perfect for gently laying down edges without excessive force, which can help you avoid damage to your edges."

Take the Style Down Gently

To avoid damaging your hair and edges, you need to be patient and gentle when removing your protective style. "Pulling or tugging on your hair will create damage," Ashley says. Once you've undone your braids, twists, or locs, carefully detangle your hair. For this, Ashley recommends using a wide-tooth comb and combing from the ends of the hair toward the scalp. "Most importantly, the hair should be combed in small sections," she adds.

Give Your Hair a Break

It's always a good idea to give your hair a break from protective styling to free it from any type of tension. "Allow two or three weeks between your protective styles," Ashley says. "Take the time to deep condition the hair, trim it, and review its state before you install another protective style."

For deep conditioning, Ashley recommends the BlondMe All Blondes Rich Mask ($53), an intense nourishing mask that strengthens the hair's inner structure while adding shine. "Apply it after you cleanse the hair, leave it on for 15-20 minutes, rinse, and style," she explains.

Read the original article on Byrdie.