Autumn style for men: how to embrace the season without looking twee
As we segue slowly into the season of mist and mellow fruitfulness and begin eyeing up the more substantial sections of our wardrobes, there’s a penchant for opting for clothes that match the mood.
The tentative crackling fires and first flush of autumn foliage that have been appearing across Instagram call for cosy sweaters and colours that complement the season. And it’s perhaps no coincidence that leafy tones dominated the men’s autumn/winter catwalks, as well on some of the most sartorially-informed on the red carpet.
Nutmeg, cinnamon, toffee, fawn; call it what you will, but the russet shades outside are echoing the tones infiltrating men’s wardrobe offerings this season. Italian house Ermenegildo Zegna - a byword for textile excellence and spearheaded by the supremely talented Alessandro Sartori - has created a collection in those delicious burnt butter shades.
Instead of the standard tuxedos in sleek black, navy or jewel tones, for winter Italian maestro (they’re rather good at this men’s style game, those Italians) Brunello Cucinelli has created one in camel, as sported by Daniel Kaluuya at the Oscars (and a copycat version on Nikolaj Coster Waldau).
Officine Creative Anatomia boots, £470, Mr Porter; Velvet jacket, £410, Oliver Spencer
While leading men are more prone to don’t-have-to-think-about-it black or navy, it’s telling that the likes of Chris Pine and Ryan Gosling have adopted shades of burgundy and auburn in their tailoring roster.
There’s a concern that autumnal shades can seem overly cosy and sedate, the sartorial equivalent of a Sunday spent fireside with The People’s Friend, but pin-sharp shapes - or in the case of Zegna, a sporty dash - demonstrate how to ignite the style cordite as opposed to the damp bonfire.
Suits in this shade are also tricky territory to muster; the all-over effect can evoke a dated, 1970s Boogie Nights feel. Perhaps the best iteration is for evening on jackets in plush velvet or in a silk variant, so that the russet glints just so. In the same family, just as blackberries and plums start filling up the larder, so too has standard navy given way to rich mauve colours.
Cashmere sweater, £245, Kent & Curwen; Etro paisley scarf, £430, Farfetch
Avoid quasi-ecclesiastical, violent tones of purple - you’re aiming for more “heather-dappled glen” than Prince on tour, or David Beckham on his wedding day in retina-scalding magenta.
A subtle, bruise-coloured palette alongside chestnut tones will act as a happy reminder that autumn is upon us, and your wardrobe is mellowing into it nicely.
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