Austria's Krampus Parades, Where Santa's 'Evil Twin' Will Beat You With a Broom
Here's everything you need to know about Krampusnacht, a popular Christmas tradition practiced throughout Austria.
If you want to find out if you've been "naughty or nice" this year, some stomping devils may be able to tell you.
In the weeks leading up to Christmas each year, Krampus parades are held throughout many of Austria's alpine villages. While the tradition began back in the Middle Ages as a Krampuslauf, or Krampus run, the modern-day version, celebrated as a parade, is still enthusiastically practiced throughout the Tyrolean state of Austria. In the town of Igls, for example, families gather to watch a Krampus parade where young men dressed in fur suits, wooden masks, and belts decorated with cowbells ride fire-lit chariots to create a terrifying ambiance.
Here's a look at the story behind this unique holiday tradition, plus some tips to help you make the most of your Krampus parade experience and a few things to check out while you're in town for the festival.
The Legend of Krampus
This fascinating holiday tradition is derived from the story of Krampus, a popular character from Eastern and Central European folklore. The mythological half-goat-half-human figure is believed to be the evil twin of Saint Nicholas and, according to History.com, was first created as early as the Middle Ages in an effort to help discipline children. Though he started out as "the horned god," a demonic figure of pagan winter solstice mythology, Krampus' story was later absorbed by Christianity and his character was turned into a counterpart of St. Nicholas.
Think of it this way: While jolly old St. Nick delivers presents to all the well-behaved kids, Krampus punishes those who have been naughty during the year. Krampusnacht (Krampus night) is celebrated each year on St. Nicholas eve, Dec. 5., the day before St. Nicholas Day, when kids are rewarded with gifts or a lump of coal if they didn't behave themselves that year.
According to legend, Krampus captures naughty children in his sack and either beats them or drags them off to hell depending on how bad they've been. No doubt kids will be on their best behavior in the days leading up to St. Nicholas Day after being threatened with something like that.
Related: Best Times to Visit Austria, According to Locals
What to Expect at a Krampus Parade
While Krampus parades can be thrilling, they may seem horrifying to anyone who just happens upon them without knowing what's going on.
During the festivities, Krampus figures and perchten (members of Krampus’ army of elves) descend into the crowd, looking for innocent bystanders — usually older kids and adults — to whip with prickly brooms and birch branches. In full character and costume, the masked actors spare no force and often get rowdy, hounding their prey until they surrender. Many also rattle chains or flick their whips to instill fear in the spectators.
Most Tyroleans find the tradition to be harmless and can often be found sipping glühwein (mulled wine) and eating roasted chestnuts while taking part in the festivities with their friends and families. That said, Krampus parades seem to be more popular among adults, or at least those in their late-teens and early-20s — it's a similar crowd and feel to Mardi Gras parades in New Orleans.
Whether you choose to watch from the sidelines or rent a Krampus costume, an expensive proposition that involves a mask (face paint is also acceptable), devil-like horns, fake fangs, red contacts, shoes resembling hooves, and a suit made of fur (real or fake). You'll also need a belt made of cowbells to announce your arrival to the rest of the crowd.
Dress warm (you're in the Alps in December, after all) and find a good spot by arriving 30–45 minutes early. Stay away from the front row to avoid making direct contact with the parades' participants, dressed as red-eyed monsters, and their swirling whips. There are no rules and you could get hurt.
Where to Find Krampus Parades
If you're passing through Central or Eastern Europe in early December, check with your destination's tourism board website to see if they'll be holding similar parades or festivals. You'll typically find Krampus-related events throughout alpine Austria, South Tyrol in Italy, Bavaria in southern Germany, Croatia, Slovenia, and Hungary.
The most popular parades happen throughout the state of Tyrol, particularly in Innsbruck and Salzburg, on St. Nicholas Eve, Dec. 5. Plan on flying into Munich — yes, it's located next door in Germany but it's just a two-hour train ride from Salzburg in Austria. Otherwise, plan to fly into Innsbruck (which may require a connecting flight from another major city like Frankfurt or London, depending on where you're coming from) before driving or catching a train or bus to your desired Krampus parade town.
Christmas Markets and Other Sights
Most travelers tend to stay in the picturesque town of Innsbruck to enjoy the festivities. And while the Krampus parades draw in thrill seekers, the snow-covered Alps, lit-up wooden houses, bustling squares, and sparkling trees create holiday magic for visitors of all ages.
Don't miss the Christmas markets in Innsbruck and Tyrol, which attract vendors from all over Europe. Each one is a great place to pick up some handmade ornaments, candles, wool scarves, woodwork, and candy for all your friends and family back home, or to purchase something special to remember your trip to Austria by.
During your trip to Innsbruck, stop by the scenic gardens and museum of Swarovski Kristallwelten, where, in one exhibit, you can see 80,000 hand-mounted crystal clouds. For a real treat, head to the Nordkette, a beautiful mountain attraction located in nearby Karwendel Nature Park, complete with a cable car, its own Alpine Zoo, and one of the steepest ski runs in Europe.
To learn more about the Krampusnacht tradition, visit the Krampus Museum about 75-minute drive from Innsbruck in Kitzbühel, Austria, where you can view 780 hand-carved masks, as well as bell belts, shoes, and traditional Krampus parade costumes. It's open each Sunday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Related: World's Best Christmas Markets
For more Travel & Leisure news, make sure to sign up for our newsletter!
Read the original article on Travel & Leisure.
