Ask the Master Gardener: Curious about companion planting? Plus tips for tomatoes, peppers
Q: I have recently heard about companion planting. What does this mean and how can I use this in my vegetable garden?
This method is a way to pair plants that will grow well together, avoiding combinations of plants that will hinder each other. Companion planting is not a new concept, since it has been utilized for a long time, but it is one that is gaining popularity. The basis of this method is the fact that some plants help others in various ways, sometimes by repelling insects, sometimes by attracting pollinators. On the other hand, there are some plants that should not be planted together.
In general, avoid planting members of the same family together, such as tomatoes and potatoes, particularly because both are prone to some of the same diseases and insects pests. Other plants that don't "like" each other include peppers and brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale, etc.), also beans hate onions.
A prime example of growing plants together that are good friends would be the "Three Sisters" method that has been utilized by Native Americans for centuries, planting corn, beans, and squash at specific intervals. The corn stalks supply a climbing structure for the beans while the sprawling squash vines provide shade and moisture retention for the other two crops. Basil and tomatoes are another good combination, basil helping improve the flavor and growth of the tomatoes, also may help repel insects and disease. Tomatoes also grow well with carrots.
The list of "friends" and "foes" in companion planting is quite long, far too much information for this column, but there are many resources both online and in books to further expand this topic.
Q: I recently bought some tomato plants that are extremely tall and "leggy." Most of the leaves are near the top with nothing on the lower part of the stem. Can I plant it as it is or is there a special technique I need to use in this case?
There is hope for tall, spindly tomatoes! The trick is to plant them deeper than usual, at an angle, digging a small trench that angles downward. The plant should then be buried up to the top part of the leaves, the first and possibly second set, with the top angled up to the desired location. Remove any leaves below the top set(s). Roots will then form all along the stem, forming a deeper root system and a stronger anchor for the plant as it grows. This method also works with all tomato plants, giving them a better chance of survival when hot and dry weather arrives.
Q: What can I do for my pepper plants to improve production?
Peppers require good drainage and full sun, and do best when the soil has reached at least 65 degrees. Transplant 2-3 weeks after the average last day of frost. Cool soil and air temperatures can stunt the plants. Average garden soil is enough for peppers, extra fertilizer is not usually required. Peppers are slow to start and start reaching their peak in the hotter part of summer.
Readers can pose questions or get more information by calling 417-874-2963 and talking to one of the trained volunteers staffing the Master Gardener Hotline at the University of Missouri Extension Center in Greene County located inside the Botanical Center, 2400 S. Scenic Ave., Springfield, MO 65807.
This article originally appeared on Springfield News-Leader: Ask the Master Gardener: Curious about companion planting?
