Are the '90s favourite bootcut jeans back in style?

There’s a shift happening in denim. First Cindy Crawford was spotted out and about with daughter Kaia Gerber at London Fashion Week, sporting a pair of bootcut jeans. Then future Duchess Meghan Markle wore a pair of black Mother bootlegs while shopping in Chelsea. Next up, a second supermodel seal of approval - Gisele Bundchen wore a pair to jet into Sao Paulo this Thanksgiving.

Three’s a charm. The bootcut is on its way back - you heard it here first.

The denim style has a somewhat chequered past. The original modification to the jeans silhouette was a matter of practicality: more room in the calf left space for bulky Western boots, without compromising on the saddle-friendly streamlined fit at the thigh.

The style undoubtedly had its heyday in the 1990s, when you could see a low-rise pair worn with a crop top and highlighted 'Rachel' 'do in every shopping mall. Every ‘style icon’ worth her salt - the Spice Girls, Britney, Buffy the Vampire Slayer - had a pair (or 10). Post ‘99 the bootcut faded from the fashion pages, confined to the wardrobes of soccer mums and sad dads.

As with any renaissance, revisiting this style calls for a touch of analysis. If you wore them last time around, they likely conjure images of buffalo boots or platform trainers, but some trends are best left in the past. Here, then, are your new bootleg rules.

Start with a clean slate

Forget everything you thought you knew about the bootcut, except of course the style’s flattering, leg-lengthening cut. Next, look to denim labels who know their stuff - Mother, Meghan’s favourite, along with 7 For All Mankind, J Brand (in a seasonal black velvet) and Levi's have all resurrected the silhouette, thankfully with a higher rise than in the '90s.

Keep it classic

Cindy Crawford is a denim veteran - earlier this year she even collaborated with the Redone denim label to create a pair of classic '90s-inspired jeans. With more than three decades of fashion experience under her belt, including 18 years walking the runway, the supermodel has perfected her personal uniform. Follow the supers lead on the bootleg front and pair with block-heel boots or heels (to maximise the famed leg-lengthening effects of the silhouette). Her revolving line-up of classic shirts or v-necked sweaters dress the style up or down - we suggest following suit.

Top-to-toe black

To ease into the bootleg mood, all black is failsafe (see Alexa Chung for confirmation). Opt for a crisply cut pair that hit the ankle, and add polished leather boots.   

Go off-duty

Casual is comfortable territory for the bootleg. A half-tucked sweater and distressed hem strike the right note. All but the longest legged among us should steer clear of trainers with a bootleg (see Gisele’s Thanksgiving airport look) - though a long-line coat will go someway to redressing the balance. To give the silhouette a lift, opt instead for a spiked heel.

Add a jacket

A little digging reveals the bootleg as a secret weapon in several models’ style repertoire - no one does dressed down better, and nothing says cool casual like a kicked out hem. Wardrobe staples - the leather biker jacket or sporty bomber - are a slick partner - swap in heeled sandals to up the ante.

Crop to smarten

Though bootlegs historically have been casual affairs, seek out the right style and you can re-spin for smarter occasions. A band of bright young things have showcased the trend. A lightly cropped pair showcase a statement heel - as seen on bootleg devotee Bella Hadid, paired with a vivid yellow jacket and printed pumps, and Chloe Moretz, accessorised with double denim (and Brooklyn Beckham).