Antonio Marras RTW Spring 2019
Antonio Marras consistently delivers some of the most creative and compelling fashion, certainly in Milan, but also on the major international stage. Yet his brand still feels under the radar in a commercial sense and it shouldn’t be.
Marras casts his shows in grand storytelling and romance, and it’s possible that sometimes the artistry and theatrics — here, a finale of soldiers in their underpants and boots strung round their necks — mask the collections’ salability. Spring was a testament to the brand’s commercial aptitude. Without snuffing out the emotional gestures that make it all so special, he pared back, packaging his signature collage treatments on silhouettes that beautifully translated his layered decoration into clothes for the real world.
Of course, there was still a story through which Marras’ many references were framed. “It’s the story of multiple voyages,” he said backstage through his son Ennio’s translation. “There are a lot of African references but it’s not the traditional Africa…Its’ about going from one country to another.” The runway was set with plywood doors, symbolizing openness and discovery. The mood board was filled with Marras’ fantastic portraiture collages, including writers and travelers Arthur Rimbaud and Bruce Chatwin. The first looks were military jackets reconstructed with artful animalia embellishments and patchworks of feathers, embroideries, lace, python and leopard patches. The lineup went on to include a vast breadth of material — hoodies, parkas, wispy slips, caftans and knits — treated with Marras’ artful mélange of craftwork.
Despite the intensity of the decorative effects, everything was remarkably wearable, done in relatively lean shapes that wafted between tailoring and flou. Traditional shirting came gussied up with scraps of recycled fabric from Marras’ studio. Army jackets were reworked as pants and skirts. Retro boudoir slips were spliced with panels of lace, leopard spots and sheer floral embroideries. It was a parade of specialty pieces that can last in a wardrobe for a very long time. Maybe not the hats, a series of fantasy headgear designed by Marras’ florist Tonino Serra and bedecked in ferns, branches, flowers, fireflies and butterflies. They were spectacular, but they barely fit through the doors.
Launch Gallery: Antonio Marras RTW Spring 2019
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