Anne Isabella RTW Fall 2022

A tiger cannot change its stripes, but Anne Isabella Rasmussen showed those can be a pretty wide territory to explore creatively. The Berlin-based designer sought to expand her design vocabulary for her fall collection, the first she is showing physically in Paris.

At first glance, and given the handsome interior she imagined in collaboration with Paris-based set designer Mathilde Vallantin Dulac, the season could have passed for a sepia-toned evocation of the cusp of the ’70s, with tubular metal furniture and A-line mini lengths galore.

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Not quite so. Rasmussen’s graphic proclivities certainly nodded to the era, as did the straightforward outlines of this compact 16-look lineup.

But a closer look at her pieces uncovered of-the-moment twisted-seam trousers, an Op Art-ish knit set, a puffer jacket made of silky pleated material and all manners of smart numbers outlined in whip-stitching — with trailing lengths of thread or with lengths of stripe-printed chiffon.

Those were among the standouts of a collection that would do well in the here and now, boding well for the label’s future.

Launch Gallery: Anne Isabella RTW Fall 2022

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