Andreādamo RTW Fall 2022

Andrea Adamo confessed, somewhat sheepishly, that he only recently discovered Panorama Bar in Berlin, over which once loomed a large-scale photo by Wolfgang Tillmans depicting an orifice out of which some claim the sun shines.

Light almost never seeps into the vast nightclub known as Berghain, which opens at midnight and within which Panorama is located, and Adamo found the freedom and hedonism of the place exhilarating. “You can be whatever you want,” he enthused backstage before the first runway show for his young brand.

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Word had seeped out that superstylist Katie Grand and makeup wizard Pat McGrath were involved, making Andreādamo the hot ticket on the first day of Milan Fashion Week, the crowd mingling in a courtyard bathed in red light before the disco started thumping.

Rendered mostly in black, the collection had a tough-chic attitude and was unabashedly sexy; draped jersey dresses slashed and lapping about the legs; flaring knit pants nearly slipping off the hips, and Adamo’s fetish viscose knits swooping over curves or arranged in a lattice and covering only what’s absolutely necessary.

What stood out here were the shearlings, including a taut, square-shouldered bolero, and others shearlings padded like puffers, with the arms lopped off or the channels stopping just past the bosom.

Sparkly jersey pants suspended by a strap around the neck and worn with a bandeau top were more Studio 54 than Berghain, but could report to any dance floor and make heads turn.

Launch Gallery: Andreādamo RTW Fall 2022

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