Andean Odyssey—In Search of Lomo and Fine Lines in Argentina

In Search of Lomo and Fine Lines in Argentina

Words and Photos by Ryan Salm

In the words of Jackson Hole–based skier Owen Leeper, “You don’t come to Argentina for the skiing, you come for the lomo.” But I didn’t know that at first.

Taking the Scenic Route: The Start of an Epic Andean Adventure

When my ski partner, Josh Anderson, and I touched down in Santiago, we opted to take the overland bus route over the Andes. I always take the scenic route as you just never know when, if ever, you are going to make a return visit. We were bound for the Lake Nahuel Huapi region in Patagonia, our first stop on an extended jaunt around Argentina.

It was hot and smoky at home in Tahoe, and the Argentinians were boasting the “best winter in years.” It was exactly what the doctor ordered.

Like most good ski trips, the plan was to incorporate planes, buses, and tiny cars with too much gear and ski a collection of resorts and backcountry destinations—all this while eating as much steak and drinking as much Malbec as humanly possible.

Our journey was long. A day to fly, an overnight in the small agricultural city of Osorno, and a heavily delayed bus journey through a foreign landscape made us feel like we were truly far from home. Due to a few hiccups by way of missed connections and various miscommunications, it took us a whopping 48 hours to make it to Bariloche.

Overburdened with ski gear and with no ATM in sight, we found ourselves sheepishly boarding a city bus without a dime to our name. Luckily, a high-school student scanned his bus card and hooked us up with a ride to our local abode.

We had combined forces with skier, Owen Leeper from Jackson Hole and would soon be rendezvousing with South Lake Tahoe’s Molly Armanino.

Low Snow and Lomo

The rumored snowfall blowing up my social media accounts was there but had morphed into a crusty medley of variability. Warm precipitation and high winds worked the surface of the snow. It was time to make Owen’s lomo theory a reality. While we did make some turns in those first days, we focused on food, making sure not to stray from what was important: the steak and the wine.

When Molly finally arrived after an adventure of her own, our tiny rental car got even smaller. With five ski bums packed like sardines in a compact car, just getting to the mountain was exciting.

As the days progressed, a few centimeters of precipitation found their way to the region. Off the flanks of Catedral, sliding past towering pillars of granite, we came upon nice stashes of snow with a stunning backdrop below. We were simply relishing the opportunity to ski new zones.

Unearthing Adventure and Authenticity at Villa La Angostura and Cerro Bayo

With the weekend on the horizon and overwhelmed by massive lift lines, we headed to Villa La Angostura and Cerro Bayo, a smaller mom-and-pop resort on the north side of the lake.

Pulling into its potholed, muddy parking lot, we knew this was our place. With a fraction of the crowds and a laid-back feel, we boarded the gondola past chocolate shops and a small base lodge before riding a throwback lift higher. Boot-packing up to the summit, a lone skier made perfect, powdery S’s down a ridge to the north. We had found the spot.

Though not as “big” in terms of terrain and size as nearby Catedral, the skiing was great. Feeling good as a group, we enjoyed long days above the azure waters and mountains stretching to the horizon. With the weather ever changing and our souls full, we wandered back to the resort for a slope-side asado. Grilled choripán popped over the open fire, and Patagonian ales matched the coolness of the air.

The key to world travel is open-mindedness. The key to ski trips is rolling with the punches. Luckily for us, ever-changing weather and an open mind always lead to finding the good times. We skied garbage, we skied glory. We lived like peasants, we lived like kings. We ate rare red meat every night. We wandered daily through the Andes on skis, and that was only the first half of the trip…