Amsterdam's 'Brown Cafes' Are the Best Places to Drink Like a Local
By Lilit Marcus. Photos: Peter Horree / Alamy Stock Photo.
Britain has its cozy neighborhood pubs, France its smoky corner brasseries, and Holland its brown cafes. These casual pubs get their names from the shades of brown that a hundred years of tobacco smoke will leave on wood floors and walls, and they often open in the afternoon and still serve until the wee hours of the morning.
At a brown cafe, you're just as likely to be on a barstool next to a group of college kids taking a study break as a crowd of old-timers who have been coming there since they were college students themselves. For travelers, brown cafes are a great place to stop and rest your legs during a busy day of sightseeing, not to mention refueling with a beer and a snack like a grilled cheese sandwich (tosti) or some meatballs. Here are the ones we recommend popping into.
Hoppe
In the central Spui neighborhood just around the corner from the American Book Center, Hoppe (pronounced "Yope") is one of the city's oldest and most beloved brown bars, and its 2 p.m. opening time means you can squeeze it in between museums. The bartender will fastidiously slice the top layer of foam off of the beer with a knife, and at quieter times he will be happy to give you a quick history lesson on the bar, which was founded in 1670 and is now a registered landmark in the Netherlands.
Cafe De Pels
Some of the city's best shopping is in the Nine Streets district, where visitors and locals alike stock up on everything from Scotch & Soda brand jeans to tulips and cheeses. Take a break from your busy afternoon with a quick bite at De Pels on Huidenstraat—the beer comes in moderate 500 ml pours so you won't get drunk in the middle of the day, and the "old cheese" (read: aged Gouda) sandwich is just the sustenance you need.
Cafe De Dam
Cafe De Dam (which confusingly also goes by Cafe Louis or Louis Bar, claiming the latter names are "easier for foreigners to pronounce") is a solid option just off of busy Dam Square. If for some reason you're sick of beer, this brown bar—just one of a few with a claim to being the smallest in town—also serves gluhwein in the colder months. It's a haven for expats, too, with gear from European and Australian football teams hung up as decor.
Proeflokaal Arendsnest
"Proeflokaal" is Dutch for "tasting room," and you will not be disappointed with the encyclopedic all-Dutch beer selection at this Jordaan spot. Ask the bartender for a recommendation (best bets are from craft breweries that don't distribute in the U.S., like Oedipus Brewing or Brouwerij De Prael), and get there before the post-dinner crowd packs every available inch of space—don't be fooled by the mirrored walls, which make it look bigger than it is.
Cafe de Dokter
The tiniest brown cafe in town, Cafe de Dokter is also one of the oldest and most legendary. It gets its name from the doctors and med students who began patronizing it in the 1700s when there was a hospital down the street, and is now managed by the sixth generation of the same family who founded the place. Check out the walls, which are covered in retro glassware, artwork, signs, and even musical instruments, then order a beer or a whisky.
This story originally appeared on Conde Nast Traveler.
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