Amiri, Rick Owens, Dries, Dior — and Denim — Buyers’ Paris Faves
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PARIS — “The energy that’s come back to Paris is palpable,” said Nordstrom men’s fashion and editorial director Jian DeLeon at the conclusion of an intense round of men’s shows in Paris that saw the return of many buyers and brands, including Hedi Slimane’s Celine, with hordes of K-pop fans and all.
After two years of digital events, a very physical Paris Fashion Week had the vibrancy of the past, riding out the energy already experienced at Milan Design Week, the men’s shows there and Pitti Uomo in Florence earlier in the month.
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Designers big and small impressed the industry with picturesque venues tapping into the many facets of the French capital and productions that turned each show into immersive experiences, from Rick Owens’ fiery orbs to Doublet’s snow in June.
Buyers were therefore thrilled to be back, high temperatures and surfeit of tourists notwithstanding. “Paris is always where we find the best looks and brands,” said Raphaël Deray, buyer for men’s luxury and designers (retail and online) at Printemps.
Top of mind were Owens, Kim Jones’ Dior and Hedi Slimane’s Celine. Mike Amiri’s elevated take on Los Angeles and Ami’s perpetual love letter to Paris also was named among favorites, as were emerging brands such as Craig Green, KidSuper, Nahmias and EgonLab.
Denim came in endless flavors, colors bloomed everywhere, soft tailoring made its big comeback and skin is in — or rather out on display. What the week showed is that “the offer for men is limitless,” as Holt Renfrew’s fashion director Joseph Tang put it, and that “all the clever ideas in design need to be perceived as effortless,” said Eric Young, founder and buying director of Shanghai-based boutique Le Monde de SHC.
Here is what the buyers made of the season.
Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Mike Amiri’s monumental outdoor show was a real Paris arrival for one of the leading American luxury brands. Beautiful staging and production highlighted a very sophisticated collection that was an elevated expansion of his West Coast and sports influences.
Junya Watanabe’s art world mash-up saw his signature patchwork denim, stitched jackets and technical outerwear emblazoned with works by [Andy] Warhol, [Keith] Haring, [Jean-Michel] Basquiat, and [Roy] Lichtenstein for a fresh, fun take on the collection. Pierre Mahéo celebrated Officine Générale’s 10th anniversary with a serene courtyard show that epitomized the elegant, easy, wardrobe-driven collection he has perfected over the years. His great tailored and sportswear separates were styled, as always, with an eye for ease, polish and with great personality.
Craig Green’s welcome return to the runway showed his continued explorations of uniforms and utilitarian clothing. His fascinating take on the standard office suit and necktie as well as his signature quilted pieces and grommeted denim were memorable. Thom Browne’s playful body-baring show expanded upon house codes with a wonderful sense of humor, dropping the waists, extending shoulders, playing with proportion and colorful tweeds, all with a nod to the nautical.
Top trends: A focus on exaggerated proportion is being seen throughout the collections here in tailoring and sportswear, with strong shoulders, slouchy, elongated jackets and fuller trousers. This statement-making silhouette feels more grounded and wearable as our perceptions have been gradually shifting.
We are also seeing a strong representation of denim on the runway and in collections with wider-legged jeans in many styles with numerous washes, colors, treatments as well as inventive jacket and shirt silhouettes using the material. There has also been a strong active and athletic component to many collections, with technical fabrications, sporty silhouettes, utilitarian detailing, and styling with leggings and accessories, all reminding us of the importance of the great outdoors and work-life balance.
Must-have item: Amiri’s logo jacquard snap-sided pants and shorts; Homme Plissé’s new diagonal pleated button jacket; Hed Mayner’s oversized jacket and dropped shoulder knitwear; Dries Van Noten’s colorful mixed printed shirts and oversized shorts; Junya Watanabe’s Pop Art patched jeans.
Courtesy of Hed Mayner
Best presentation: The Théâtre de la Danse of Chaillot’s mesmerizing and moving acrobatic performance at the presentation by Homme Plissé by Issey Miyake was just remarkable and a great reminder of the power of the in-person experience. It was an inspired way to show the movement and freedom of the brand’s signature pleated garments. Kim Jones’ Dior show set that imagined a walk through the blooming wildflowers near the country homes of Monsieur Dior in Normandy and Bloomsbury group artist Duncan Grant’s in Sussex was stunningly beautiful and a great setting for the gardening-inspired collection.
General comments: Paris always presents great creativity and expansive thinking in fashion and it was fantastic to be back in town to experience these shows and presentations in person. There has definitely been an amplified energy and excitement here, with many large-scale productions, great attendance and enthusiasm, an increased celebrity, athlete and influencer component along with the fantastic collections we’ve seen.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Kim Jones at Dior continues to deliver a powerful collection with some of the season’s must-have accessories. Reinterpretations of the traditional Bar jacket and the outdoor-inspired footwear were standout pieces that we know our customers will covet. Dries Van Noten presented an eclectic array of strong ready-to-wear pieces that our customer will be able to style and mix in their own unique way.
We were excited to see Mike Amiri’s return to the Paris show calendar. His new, relaxed tailoring message is leading the way for the updated silhouette of the season.
Top trends: Effortless tailoring has been the message for the week with fluid pants and silk tops from Casablanca, Dries Van Noten and Hermès redefining the fits of the season. Collegiate remixing was everywhere. Souvenir jackets from Kenzo, Celine and Junya Watanabe and the return of the three-button jacket stand out as must-haves of the season. Patchwork trousers from John Elliott and Sacai pair perfectly with this. Denim dominated the runways and we love a Canadian tuxedo. Givenchy, Ami and Rhude were standouts with carpenter cargo details offering updates to classic denim.
Must-have items: Dior’s rubber slip-on; Nahmias’ cargo trousers; Amiri’s mixed patchwork souvenir jacket; Hermès’ lightweight cotton jacket; Casablanca’s silk match set; Givenchy’s rubber boot; Celine’s glitter boot.
Best presentation: The Paris collections did not disappoint with exceptional venue locations and immersive brand experiences. Highlights were Ami Paris’ presentation at The Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre with supermodel icons, the enchanted garden created by Dior filled with fresh flowers, and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake bringing dance and performance art to the runway.
Talent scouting: Paris is bursting with talent, and we continue to support the wave of men’s designers that are generating excitement within the market. KidSuper, Nahmias and Rhude are designers we have launched within the past year, and we’re thrilled to see their development through the shows this week.
General comments: There’s no shortage of fashion here in Paris. From the established houses to the up-and-coming brands, one thing is certain: the offer for men is limitless. The week was filled with amazing talent and pieces that will inspire our customers to get dressed up and try something new. Spring will be all about the nonchalant fluid silhouette paired with the season’s most coveted shoes and accessories. After a successful two-week fashion marathon, we leave Paris excited and optimistic for spring 2023.
Johnny Li, general merchandising manager at Lane Crawford
Favorite collections: One of my favorite collections this season was from Amiri — the colors, textures and silhouettes were all elevated and luxurious, but the nods to Los Angeles such as the baseball scripts, varsity jackets and artwork remind us all about the roots of the brand.
Top trends: The standout trend for men’s this season [was] denim everything. The great thing about [it] is that it has such great range and you don’t have to limit yourself to just indigo. It can be an easy trucker jacket and five-pocket combo like the refreshing cream set at Kenzo, a vintage washed monogram set like the ones at Amiri, or you can go all-out with a full-length denim overcoat like at Sacai or a denim jumpsuit at Prada. Even though it’s been a staple in every man’s wardrobe, these new takes on denim will tempt any man to make an upgrade.
Best presentation: Doublet, a brand that really uplifts and reminds everyone that fashion should be fun. The clothes always have an element of tongue-in-cheek humor that makes you chuckle but also makes you want it for next season, like their vintage T-shirts and giant tailored jackets. Last but not least, they brought snow to the Paris summer!
Tyler Franch, vice president, fashion director at The Bay and The Room
Favourite collections: Thom Browne, Loewe, Rick Owens, Lemaire and Y/Project.
Top trends: The new commuter, micro shorts, updated cargo, utilitarian accessories and footwear, dopamine brights, genderless dressing, a sleeveless summer, skin baring tanks and tees, feminine details, collegiate style, artistic prints and the return of denim.
Must-have items: Bleach-dipped, washed and treated denim from Y/Project; anything in the electric pink or acid green from Rick Owens, and a luxurious leather coat from Loewe.
Gomez de Villaboa/WWD
Best presentation: Rick Owens showed three burning suns falling one after another [into] the fountain at the Palais de Tokyo, signaling an uncertain future and one where sustainability in fashion remains at the forefront of the conversation.
Talent scouting: All eyes on Bianca Saunders, last year’s ANDAM Prize recipient.
General comments: Although the weather in Paris wasn’t nearly as blazing hot as Milan, the city felt just as stifling with an overwhelming amount of tourists and fashion week flocks taking over the streets, restaurants, bars and hotels. This June marks for most the return of in-person Pride celebrations after a long two years of lockdowns and digital events. As such, it was only fitting to see many designers celebrate a future filled with love and freedom through their spring 2023 collections.
The shows were held while the terrifying news of women’s reproductive rights were being revoked in the U.S., making it hard to imagine where we will be next summer or where we will be headed with the world changing by the minute. But, if the runways can guarantee us anything, we know that we will be empowered to take our own individual paths, that the future if we are so lucky, is ours to choose, and that art will continue to be a light that shines even in our darkest of days.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Lemaire’s collection was an early standout for elegant and eminently wearable warm weather clothes. Craig Green continues to impress with a colorful collection that reminds us what we missed about in-person fashion shows. Rick Owens and Celine offered up two extreme interpretations of glam rock filtered through the codes of their respective designers. And at Kenzo, Nigo’s latest offering exhibits how he’s continuing to hone his chops and inject new energy into the house.
Top trends: Cowboy fever continues to influence menswear, from the literal horses on Casablanca’s runway to boots at Dries Van Noten, and the last look at Thom Browne. The injection-molded shoe continues its luxury ascent with interpretations from Dior and Vuitton.
Must-have item: For me, it’s the cowboy boot-inspired mules from Dries Van Noten.
Best presentation: Lemaire’s vignettes of models toed the line between performance art, choreography and character study, creating multiple contexts for the clothes that made their simple elegance feel more profound.
General comments: The energy that’s come back to Paris is palpable. It seems everyone from designers to buyers, and even the casual fashion fans outside the shows are excited to see men’s week back in a major way.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks
Favorite collections: Dior, Amiri, Givenchy, Rhude, Celine, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten and Officine Générale.
Kim Jones’ collection for Dior was a standout and one of my favorites. I am loving his exploration of the outdoors and what the new lifestyle will be in this post-pandemic world. The mix of tailored double-breasted coats in dusty pastels with tailored shorts, technical outerwear, utilitarian elements and Duncan Grant’s Lily Pond Screen artwork layered in was exciting and unexpected. The accessories and new Dior Cannage shoe and rubber boot will be coveted before they hit stores. Mr. Jones is always one step ahead.
Miki Amiri delivered a beautiful collection inspired by imagination and dreams. The chill, California vibe of Amiri has officially gone global with a powerful lineup sent down the runway in color stories of soft blues, dusty pinks, teal and black and white. Mike is a master in reworking denim and his artisanal approach to denim baseball jerseys, cargo shorts and jacquard denim is incredible. His relaxed tailoring layered over easy button-down shirts and double-pleated pants paired with dip-dyed knits all feel spot on for what the Amiri customer is looking for.
Matthew Williams has clearly been observing the Givenchy customer and knows exactly what they are looking for. His lineup of cargos, treated denim, shorts, technical outerwear and relaxed suits all paired back to the new TK360 will definitely be everyday go-to pieces for the season.
Rhuigi [Villaseñor]’s collection for Rhude was a cool and effortless mix of collegiate, preppy and luxe everyday essentials. Striped button-ups, washed and reworked denim, varsity jackets and knits, dramatic stripes — there were so many great looks and pieces for the Rhude fans.
Best venue: Dior’s magical and dreamy garden was a joyful delight and served as a nice reminder to get outside and explore nature and the elements. Rick Owens literally brought the heat with his fire-drenched orbs at the Palais de Tokyo. Rick’s collections and his dramatic flair are always a highlight in Paris.
New brands: A few new brands we’re excited about coming out of Paris are Nahmias, Lukhanyo Mdingi and Egonlab.
Top trends: There is a sense of ease in collections this season as fashion focuses on this post-pandemic lifestyle. We’re seeing relaxed tailoring in monochromatic tones, slouchy trousers and short suits. Innovative denim made an appearance on almost every runway — washed, reworked, treated, jacquard, shredded and pin-striped denim. Plus denim in novelty shapes including wide legs, drawstring, shorts and cargos.
Other key trends for the season include cargos and workwear, the skate sneaker, the great outdoors, technical influences and the rubber boot.
Must-have item: A relaxed suit or short suit, a cargo or one of this season’s innovative denim pieces.
General comments: Paris Men’s Fashion Week is back in full swing. The week was packed with high energy, excitement and buzz as the spring 2023 collections came to life for the world to see. Creativity was on full display and our team could not be happier with the incredible lineup of fashion we saw this week.
Andrea Selvi, men’s buying manager at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi with a parterre of stars in the fashion show and guests, in front of the Sacré Coeur confirms the success of his style.
showed some very elaborate garments with a nice pop of color.
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD
Top trends: Men’s collections will be very colorful: pastel shades, mixed with natural colors. Technical fabrics for light outerwear items and lots of details from precious embellishments to allover prints.
Must-have item: Wide-legged trousers and parkas in light technical fabrics.
Best presentation: Louis Vuitton is today a real show, with the musicians and the very theatrical scenography, the team managed to make the Louvre even more spectacular.
Talent scouting: Lukhanyo Mdingi and Egonlab.
General comments: It has been a fashion week full of optimism, already perceived during Pitti.
Alice Feillard, menswear officer and buying director at Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Celine, Lemaire, Loewe, Marine Serre and Hed Mayner.
Top trends: A call for nature (at Loewe, Dior, etc.); a casual chic mixing sophistication and utilitarian; soft tailoring for a more relaxed silhouette; elevated denim — washed, fringed and printed; silver metallics; monochrome colors, rather than prints — from shades of blue (blue pastel, mint) to powder blush to earthy tones.
Must-have items: A double-breasted loose suit, a white cotton embroidered shirt, denim short shorts and santiags.
Best presentation: Ami — it was a joyful and very Parisian show on the stairs of Sacré Coeur. Lemaire was a poetic presentation with the perfect wardrobe.
Talent scouting: We keep on investing in and supporting emerging Parisian brands: EgonLab, Hed Mayner and Bianca Saunders.
General comments: It was a great season — joyful and dynamic — with a very desirable, yet easy fashion. Everyone was happy to get back to physical shows and presentations. We saw a renewal in the models casting, mixing more generations and sizes. At last fashion becomes more inclusive and open-minded, addressing a wider public.
Raphaël Deray, buyer for men luxury and designers (retail and online) at Printemps
Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Namacheko, Airei, Dries Van Noten, Egon Lab and Y/Project.
Top trends: Cropped, see-through, cutouts, denim, genderless, neon colors and visible underwear.
Must-have items: A cropped, tailored jacket, crochet knits, leather trousers and shorts and cool underwear.
Best presentation: Lemaire definitely had the best presentation. It wasn’t a regular runway show, as you had to walk through the collection with the models living a “real life.” Some were sleeping and reading books, while others were talking to each other, playing music, etc. It seemed like you were part of a Lemaire world, surrounded by beautiful clothes and “regular” people. I also loved that guests were welcomed by Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran themselves. It added a sense of authenticity to it.
Talent scouting: Airei and Kidill were pretty cool. They both have a strong attention to details, their own identity and a great combination of commercial and elevated products.
Budgets: Budgets are up. It seems like fashion is where it was in 2019, with so much enthusiasm around it. Tourists are back. People tend to buy less but better pieces.
General comments: Overall, this was a great fashion week. Paris is always where we find the best looks and brands, in my opinion, and it goes from the mastodons Dior, Louis Vuitton…to all the emerging designers like Namacheko, Kiko Kostadinov, Egonlab…which is pretty fantastic.
Franck Nauerz, menswear director at Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Dior, for its very elegant silhouettes and modern shapes. Kim [Jones] has an incredible talent for accessorizing. Loewe, for the brilliant balance between modern vision and [the brand’s] craftsmanship DNA. Rick Owens, which presented new flash colors in the collection that brings something new to the brand. Casablanca, with its horseback, American mood. The collection is colorful, and we can see the identity of the brand in the details of each piece presented.
Top trends: Neo/soft tailoring, more relaxed. Pierre Mahéo, for Officine Générale, knows perfectly how to propose this silhouette, and brings newness each season. Poeticism and romance are strong [for spring], with a lot of flower prints and embroidery. Kind of a felicità vibe. Colorblocking and neon-flash colors are in a lot of key silhouettes of most of the brand presented. Less jersey (sweatshirts) and logos.
Must-have items: Shirts with short sleeves made of open knitwear. It seems the shirt has replaced the T-shirt, even for very urban/street brands. Fluid and light over shirts, mostly in silk. Oversized sneakers with skate and outdoor inspirations, big laces. We saw them at the Dior and Loewe shows, for example. Running shoes within a global trend of activewear — more than sportswear, that we had in previous seasons.
Best presentations: At Dior, the floral setup gave an unreal vision of the maison. Rick Owens at the Palais de Tokyo, with impressive and massive burning balls above show.
Talent scouting: Lukhanyo Mdingi, the LVMH Prize finalist in 2021. We always have a look at the emerging brands we see [there].
General comments: Sustainability is a key word for all the brands.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente
Favorite collections: Loewe, Dior, Ami, Celine, Kenzo, Amiri, Casablanca, Lemaire, Rhude and Etudes.
Top trends: Tailoring is finally and more decisively back (if there were any doubts), paired with dusty pastel colors, which crowded most of the shows — think Dior, Amiri. On the other side of the spectrum, denim was once again a strong trend, starting from wide-legged, low-waisted jeans — the best ones seen at Ami — to the ever-present cargo pants, to all the jacket and overshirt iterations. Clothes were rich with cuts and distressed treatments: Matthew William’s Givenchy was the perfect example. At Celine it was all about the sparkling embellishments on leather jackets, extralong blouses, fringed shirts with the namesake rock attitude — all of which are proving men “want to be seen.” Shoes are still chunky, ranging from flip-flops to rubber slides and boots.
Dominique Maitre/WWD
Top trends: For next season, the must-haves are a pastel suit, cargo pants, a pajama/shirt set for resort, wide denim and wide tailored pants to be paired with bombers and fluid knitwear. Tonal dressing in suits or more casual sets, juxtaposed with hyper-colorful knits (think fluo dyes) or flashy embellished jackets.
Best presentation: Loewe was my favorite show concept, presenting a dystopian reality and exploring our relationship with nature and technology. Will we be so intertwined with the metaverse that we will wear screens? Will nature be preserved and be so overpowering to grow on clothes? Or should we make sure we walk around with our own ecosystem? Jonathan Anderson is not shy about these questions, and after many shows concerned with the more commercial side of the business, his presentation reminded us that fashion is a work of art.
Talent scouting: Mowalola was one of the most striking debuts, proving fashion’s relationship with music is stronger than ever. We also loved Ester Manas for AZ Factory, for its inclusive message.
General comments: The energy has been building up since Milan Design Week, but it now feels like we are completely back to business. Buyers and celebrities crowding the shows is a testimony to the fact that people want to go back to a dynamic lifestyle, full of events. This is good news for the industry, and we are looking at summer 2023 with a positive outlook.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner Berlin
Favorite collections: Celine, Loewe, Dior, Rick Owens, Sacaï and Ami.
Top trends: I don’t see any common trends among brands. Each brand has its own identity and evolves within its universe. It is spring, so of course we see shorts, skirts, sandals and we see more skin. It is about freshness, lightness, dressing in harmony with the environment and nature.Suiting is strong, but not heavy. It flows with the body, letting it breathe, even with fashionable cutouts.
Must-have items: Bags, jackets and shorts.
Best presentation: Celine — it had fantastic energy and electricity in the air inside and outside the venue. Hedi Slimane is a master of capturing the essence of now. Total desirability. Number-one selling brand.
Talent scouting: Nothing groundbreaking, but as I said before each brand we carry is proposing each season newness and freshness. I like Courrèges’ men’s pieces, Ami’s easiness und unpretentiousness (and what an amazing setting of the show at the Sacré Coeur) and Sacaï’s new collab.
General comments: What a great spirit and dynamism in Paris this season. There was very positive energy in a city that has so much to offer. Combined with the Hubert de Givenchy fantastic sale at Christie’s the week before, it felt like Paris is the fashion capital city of the world, showing both its incredible heritage and its capacity of being absolutely relevant today.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments and men’s fashion director at Tsum Moscow & DLT St Petersburg, fashion director at Tsum.ru
Favorite collections: Amiri, Craig Green and Dries Van Noten.
Top trends: I noticed big creativity, maybe more than in Milan. While in Milan a strong return of formality — [with the] suit and jacket — was visible, in Paris this message was a bit more diluted. Even so, I noted a huge evolution of brands like Amiri or Casablanca going into a more sophisticated direction. I loved the total green interpretation of JW Anderson for Loewe and the mix between nature and technology, for sure one of the most interesting show in the last years. The Amiri show was a really fresh interpretation of [how] to be modern, fashionable and sophisticated at the same time.
Must-have items: Amiri college jacket and new sneakers.
Best presentation: Loewe and Rick Owens
General comments: This Paris Fashion Week was special because after two years, the city is fully back. Not only all the fashion crowd is back but also the city is full, full of tourists and you can visibly notice how much the people are enjoying the Ville Lumière.
As I said [previously] the city plays a big, big role in the fashion week in Paris and the locations of the shows are extremely charming and make everything look better. Even a garage roof like for Dries Van Noten’s fashion show becomes immediately romantic when you see the typical French mansard [roofs] and the sunset on the city. In general I was surprise by the creativity and by the really fashionable clothing.
Simon Longland, head of menswear at Harrods
Favorite collections: Dior showcased a collection full of pieces to covet. Tailoring was at the heart of the collection: double-breasted and wide fluid trousers define the offer and silhouette this season, and Kim displayed this with perfection. As always under Kim’s direction, the cut, finish and detailing of each piece are exceptional and showcase the savoir-faire of the maison.
Mike Amiri’s latest collection was yet again a strong elevation of the brand’s identity. His use of beautiful fabrics, from lightweight and breathable to soft leather in muted and subtle colorways created a synergy that flowed throughout the show. Top of the wish list for next season will be the wide leg trousers — a must in either denim or light wool and completely versatile.
Rick Owens’ show was so rich in meaning and was incredibly considered from fiber to finish. The collection featured his signature motifs of exaggerated shoulders and plays on proportion and scale and this season, an absence of hardware and embellishment ensured a clean and minimal aesthetic. Owens’ expertly displayed his eye for detail by working with new, carefully thought-out processes.
As always with Loewe, leather was absolutely dominant in a showcase full of considered, natural materials and showcased the brand’s complete mastery in this. In every style, from padded nappa jackets to trousers we saw a myriad of beautiful colors range from neutral hues to vibrant pops.
Top trends: From Amiri to Craig Green, head-to-toe denim continued to rule the runway in Paris and truly celebrated the versatility of the fabric.
Leather everything! From shorts (everything from micro to basketball silhouettes) to trousers, coats, accessories — this week’s designers really showcased their mastery in the fabric.
Tailoring was in almost every collection this week, from double-breasted and fitted with wide fluid trousers at Dior and Dried Van Noten to Vuitton’s single-breasted and boxy with slimmer trousers, showcasing that suiting really is here to stay.
In a season dominated by monochromatic and muted tones, what bursts of vivid color we did see, from the likes of Rick Owens and Loewe were really exciting to see.
Fashion showcased its twist on “the great outdoors” for spring 2023. Technical looking pieces but with a cool, fashion edge; leggings at Loewe, cycling shorts under tailoring at Dior, and everything at Craig Green.
Flowers were a clear source of inspiration for a lot of collections, sometimes told through picturesque staging like Dior, or through the collection itself at Issey Miyake and Vuitton.
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Best presentation: The Louis Vuitton show was spectacular. From the setting and incredible staging to the band and the live vocals from Kendrick Lamar, Virgil’s [Abloh’s] legacy was palpable and very present throughout — a testament to the strength of his vision and legacy.
General comment: Paris menswear is back to full force. An exceptionally strong season — staging a show really does bring out the best of the brand and its designer.
Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion
Favorite collections: Where to begin? Everyone was really stepping it up this season but highlights were Craig Green, Rick Owens, Lemaire, Winnie and Husbands.
Top trends: It’s been great to see ties everywhere with sharp tailoring to go with. Also, shirts in every style, from fashion, to stripes, to crochet and sheer, the humble shirt is heading in all directions and effortlessly elevating any look.
Must-have item: It’s got to be a fashion tie from Craig Green.
Best presentation: Loewe’s set was incredible — a vast spaceship white stage, it was minimal, futuristic and super-dramatic.
General comments: There’s been a sultry mood in Paris this season, whether it’s open-neck shirts showing a hint of skin or sexy tailoring and sharp trousers to the more outlandish pieces, the mood is definitely going out and liberated.
Laura Larbalestier, group fashion director of Harvey Nichols
Key items and trends: Leather, denim, motocross, oversized knitwear and loungewear.
Best presentation: Amiri and Casablanca
Best shows: Dries Van Noten, Loewe and Celine.
Overall impression: Great to be back at men’s fashion week after two years with so much excitement.
Eric Young, founder and buying director at Le Monde de SHC
Favorite collections: Wales Bonner, Rhude, Courrèges, Dries Van Noten, Y/Project and Kenzo.
Top trends: All the clever ideas in design need to be perceived as effortless. I am so glad that the trend of street-inspired fashion is coming to an end this season. Traditional menswear with beautiful and decorative details is making a comeback at last.
Must-have items: Well-tailored loose-fit trousers, especially denim ones. I also like a well-made suit and leather jackets.
Best presentation: Because of Shanghai’s lockdown, sadly I didn’t go to the fashion week. From the pictures, I wasn’t too impressed with the showcase this time, except for Rick Owens’ fireball. Hopefully, I can go to Paris again soon.
Talent scouting: Winnie. We noticed this menswear label from New York as early as 2020. But due to the epidemic, we hold our ordering for the past two years. I was impressed by the elegance and understated taste of its work and the maturity of its production.
Budgets: Around $600,000. Due to the Shanghai lockdown, we hold a conservative view on the buy, while aiming to keep a certain level of activity.
General comments: Although I can’t be physically there, I felt that this Paris Men’s Fashion Week was one that was really rejuvenated after the epidemic. I was happy to see that many of the brands that have grown together with us over the past few years have evolved to the next stage.
Yuming Ma, Lijun Sun, buyers at A Surname by Labelhood
Favorite collections: Hed Mayner and Dries Van Noten are two of our favorites this season. Hed Mayner is a very “Surname” brand, and this season it offered a more precise take on proportions.
Dries Van Noten is the most subdued one among those who speak the language of youth subculture. The designer added soft pink wrap-around half-skirts, corsets, or waistbands to the brand’s signature suits, retaining DVN’s usual minimalist elegance while also showing a youthful rebellious spirit.
Top trends: This season, we see the idea of youth subculture [being] discussed and explored more deeply. The scenes and elements that are extended by it are reflected in each collection — low-waisted, pixelated patterns, camouflage, cowboy, all are the manifestation of subculture.
And there is one style that is particularly amplified in this: gender ambiguity. This indicates that in the coming spring 2023 season, people’s way of dressing will definitely be more expressive and free.
Must-have item: Denim is definitely a must-have item. The whole season, [it] is very exciting. In addition to the usual jackets, pants, and shirts, there are also parka and other coat types. The treatment process is also very rich and more layered than before.
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Best presentation: The Lemaire spring 2023 show was very different from the previous ones. This time, there was no seating, and models and invited people walked around the show at will, as if breaking the barrier between the “show” and the actual wearer, allowing the design and the consumer to “chat” directly. It was like a group of people with the same taste, randomly gathering somewhere in Paris and having a good conversation.
Talent scouting: Everyone should be looking to Mowalola’s debut show this time. In an increasingly commercialized environment, it’s been a long time since a collection has been so passionate and direct about conflict and sinful aesthetics. The most discussed white dress, which wraps around the entire elbow and snaps up at the neck, also sends a poignant message. We feel that [the brand] is a pure, straightforward telling of a complete story, which is very rare these days.
Budgets: Frankly, the global economic downturn and especially the Shanghai lockdown have had a significant impact on the industry, and I’m sure people in the industry can relate to it. There is a clear downgrading of consumer buying habits. People have a new definition of “must-have,” which is a big challenge for apparel.
Therefore, compared with the rapid growth in the first three seasons, the budget for this season has been significantly reduced. We will be conservative in trying new brands, and we will also reduce the ordering budget for brands with average sales figures. We want the product mix to be “stable” so that it can serve as a solid foundation to face the “uncertainty” of the coming season.
General comments: In the post-epidemic period, the industry as a whole is in a state of “adjustment” and “adaptation.” As a result, this season’s designers have chosen to create a sense of “stability” by abandoning a lot of sharp expressions and creating a more relaxed dressing language to accommodate the current need to go out.
At the same time, with the rise of the Millennial generation, designers have chosen to focus more deeply on the exploration of youth subculture, no longer advocating certain ideas in a formal way, but reaching the resonance of different community through design language. There are still a lot of great designs in such a “relatively limited” environment, and we, as a buying store, are confident in this season.
Justin Berkowitz, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: There were many strong collections this season. I particularly enjoyed Louis Vuitton, Dior, Rick Owens, Lemaire and Officine Générale.
Top trends: We’re seeing quite a bit of volume in Paris this season; oversized and relaxed fits reflect a general ease. Ombré is the update to tie dye. Neo-prep and varsity jackets continue from the past couple of seasons. For resortwear, embroidery, crochet and eyelet provide novel interest. And finally, soft workwear and utility themes add a bit of toughness.
Must-have item: Updated camp shirts with a focus on texture and transparency have been quite prevalent, and are a very important update for next spring.
Best presentation: The Ami show at the Sacré-Coeur was the ultimate Parisian fantasy. After a couple of years away, I felt such the tourist in the perfect way.
Talent scouting: I absolutely loved the softly quiet Auralee presentation at the Musée Picasso. Softly elegant with an incredible sense for color. Winnie was another standout — likewise an incredible sense of color with a very creative presentation display and great video.
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion & accessories at Samaritaine
Favorite collections: Prada, Dries Van Noten, Wales Bonner and Casablanca.
Top trends: Modern Far West, easy and relaxed tailoring, elevated everyday essentials, denim everywhere — and cowboy boots.
Must-have items: Crochet shirts from Casablanca; Nike x Jacquemus’ collaboration.
Best presentation: Jacquemus’ incredible set-up and Casablanca at Palais Brongniart with a reconstitution of a Mexican hacienda-ranch
Talent scouting: Dhruv Kapoor, Gunther and Cool TM.
Budgets: Very confident in the collections seen in showrooms so budget aligned to represent them well in store.
General comments: Desirable collections that make you want to to go out and have fun and to feel beautiful.
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