Mike Amiri sharpened up his silhouettes for fall, but continued to tread the vintage landscape he entered for spring with a — justifiably — self-confident stride.
Inspired by a 1979 photo by Henry Diltz of Keith Richards stepping out of a private jet and into his limo, the coed lineup was filled with stylized, structured suiting and walked a nonchalant line between bourgeoisie and bohemia. Wide lapels and flared or ultra-tapered pants were worked in suede, velvet and lots of leather in a color palette oh-so evocative of the era — camel, bottle green, cream, peacock blue, mustard yellow — with a teddy bear coat thrown in here and there for a touch of comfort.
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He gave his silhouettes slightly feminine cuts and treatments, as on the tone-on-tone, gold-buttoned tweed suiting and trouser suits treated in diamond jacquard with metallic threads. Gold was a new introduction, worked for example as a check on a camel coat, inspired by the label’s collaboration with S.T. Dupont for the season, whose lighters found their way into the prints, reminiscent of silk scarves brought back from a far-off journey.
Amiri’s hero was a traveling troubadour — after the famed Los Angeles nightspot of the same name, that is — a message heightened by the accessories, with a wealth of bags including an outsized leather design that would work for a month of jet-setting, never mind a weekend.
Launch Gallery: Amiri Men's Fall 2020