Amid a Very Wearable Milan Season, Bally's New Designer Shines

Dhani Mau

September 24, 2023 at 11:07 AM·4 min read

<p>Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight</p> — Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Known for its many storied, prestigious luxury houses, Milan Fashion Week has felt more down-to-earth this season, with designers everywhere from Tom Ford to Max Mara to Gucci to Ferragamo showing collections filled with classic, wearable pieces for everyday. Some passionate online voices have found this disappointing, and there are almost certainly commercial interests driving every instance of this phenomenon, but I, for one, enjoy seeing clothes on the runway that I'd actually wear, especially from houses that excel at craftsmanship. Thus, Bally's Spring 2024 show — which marked the debut of the Swiss house's new design director Simone Bellotti — was a delight.

Held Saturday evening along cloisters surrounding a beautiful garden in Milan, the show began with the basics: single-breasted blazers and poplin button-downs paired with shorts, trousers and a slightly asymmetrical pencil-like skirt, all in a palette of navy, black and light blue, which continue to appear throughout the collection alongside other neutrals like brown and khaki. Thanks to their relaxed silhouettes, these looks reminded me of something between a postal worker's uniform and traditional corporate office-wear, but with a cool, modern spirit.

From there, the collection grew more rich, complex and feminine, while remaining tethered to the real world — blazers and coats done in soft leather with just the right amount of sheen, often paired with matching short-shorts; cozy knitwear in both oversized and fitted silhouettes; splashes of red via sweaters and and jackets; body-hugging mini dresses and skirts, some in taffeta with ruffle detailing for a touch of romance and frivolity.

The many leather accessories are timeless, practical and beautiful, For footwear, Bellotti revisited archival styles (a buckled Mary Jane from 1923, an oxford lace-up from 1951, a "Ballyrina" flat from 1940), and made them feel very of-the-moment. Polished calfskin bags are clean and structured, but not overly formal.

Bellotti was inspired by the spirit of Monte Verità, "a utopian haven of alternative intellectuals and creative souls who settled in Ascona, Switzerland at the turn of the 20th century," per the show notes. Spring 2024 is also meant to be a study on Swiss identity, described as "a playfulness that leans subversive, scholastic, essential." The notes also describe Bellotti's vision for Bally as "a brand with layers, a reflection of our human nature."

This all amounts to a collection of easy staples with nuance. These looks may be simple, but they're well-constructed and imbued with the sort of stylish charm you might find on the streets of Paris or Copenhagen, making nearly every piece feel special and desirable.

Aside from commerciality, another potential motivator for some of Milan Fashion Week's many pared-back collections was all the new talent: When a designer introduces their first collection for a house, there's often a desire to "wipe the slate clean" rather than try and introduce too many new ideas in their first outing. It would make sense if Bellotti also had this in mind, but even if he sticks to this elevated-normcore proposition, he still deserves a spot on the list of designers whose sophomore collections we're especially excited to see next season.

See every look from Bally's Spring 2024 collection below.