AMI Alexandre Mattiussi Spring 2023
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What’s the Paris look?
Patricia Field, consulting costume designer for “Emily in Paris,” has a few answers to the question, and so does designer Alexandre Mattiussi, who wrote a love letter to the city, and its stylish denizens, with a show that took place at the base of the Sacre Coeur church, followed by a big open-air party on the edges of Montmartre.
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Guests – all 350 of them – sat on café chairs and watched models walk a winding runway that mimicked the twists and turns of Montmartre’s streets. The front row was a who’s who of French, and English, talents including Catherine Deneuve, Isabelle Adjani, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Tom Daley and “Bridgerton’s” Jonathan Bailey, who was also spotted at the Milan men’s shows earlier this month.
Audrey Tautou, the star of “Amelie” and one of Mattiussi’s favorite actresses, opened the show dressed in an oversized trench, white jeans and spiky heels, and it doesn’t get more Parisian than that. The Café des Deux Moulins, where the lovely Amelie worked as a waitress, is right nearby.
A lineup of famous faces followed, including Karen Elson, Cara Delevingne and Kristen McMenamy, who closed the show dressed as a Pigalle lady of the night, in shiny, chili-pepper red.
“This is the greatest moment of my life,” said Mattiussi, who was bouncing around his studio during a preview. “My women’s wear is getting stronger, I’m opening more stores and I just want to make people happy with my clothes.”
After two years of lockdown, he also wanted to show off his beloved city, and create “a perfect wardrobe, something for everyone – all ages and members of the family.”
The show was based around Parisian archetypes, and personalities including Serge Gainsbourg, Edith Piaf, Brigitte Bardot and Deneuve’s “Belle de Jour” character.
There was certainly something for everyone and, as a result, the show ran too long, and it wasn’t short on clichés. But it was also packed with fun, colorful basics.
Bright green or navy blazers came with shiny gold buttons (so bourgeois) and, in an ode to Bardot, there were shrunken Breton stripe sweaters and barely-there cutoff shorts.
Argyle sweaters and short pleated skirts were styled with droopy knee socks and closed-toe sandals (the only thing missing here was an after-school pain au chocolat), while neckerchiefs were knotted around many bohemian models’ necks.
Color also came in the form of a candy pink, nubby overcoat and, of course, the shiny red trench and sky-high matching boots that McMenamy wore to close the show.
With that come-hither outfit and a shake of her long white locks, the 57-year-old supermodel captured the Paris look: confidence.
Launch Gallery: AMI Alexandre Mattiussi Spring 2023
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