For fall, Alexandre Mattiussi turned to New York City, out to capture the allure and exhilaration of its 1990s fashion scene. He snatched up the era’s favorite figures and gave them a Parisian do-over, sprucing up their looks for a contemporary, style-conscious consumer — impactful, without the frills.
John Kennedy Jr. might have reached for one of the sturdy business-like overcoats before stepping out to face the paparazzi, and one could imagine Caroline Bessette in the sleek leather skirt, slit to offer a flash of leg and paired with a turtleneck.
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“And here’s a rich girl, who arrives at school in her limousine — we hate her but she looks so good,” said Mattiussi, pointing to an image on a tablet screen. The model wore a short, pleated skirt in ivory and bright lipstick. “A little b—hy,” he added.
For Michael Douglas’ “Wall Street” character, the assertive power suit — trousers loose, with a pleat — and, fitting the label’s penchant for androgynous looks, cute, boyish shorts suits. Melanie Griffith’s “Working Girl,” meanwhile, was outfitted in a pleated dress, muted grey, styled with a vest and overcoat.
Staples for all-around, modern life.
“When I started out with Ami, 10 years ago, I set out to make clothing for people I love, for my friends — this show is meant to be the ideal wardrobe,” he said, speaking in rapid-fire French.
A spin around a Paris showroom showed this also included prominent duffle coats and peacoats, a not-quite-classic rendition of the mariniere sweater, all leather looks and a hugely oversize puffer jacket in poppy red. The season’s musts were elevated, including a shearling jacket in a pinkish beige, cut short; a long, fitted knit dress, and ribbed loungewear.
Broadcast through the brand’s website, the film presentation kicked off with Adut Akech heading to the show venue in Paris. Mattiussi, sporting a Yankees cap, greeted her with a hug before sending the lineup down a stark white platform runway that recalled catwalk shows in New York galleries, back in the day — crowded with photographers, flashes popping.
One had to agree. The time is ripe for the return of the Big Apple.
Launch Gallery: AMI RTW Fall 2021