Alexandre Vauthier RTW Spring 2023

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From the way Alexandre Vauthier becomes animated when explaining how his couture collection translates technically into the brand’s subsequent ready-to-wear read, it’s clear that the couturier really gets a kick out of the process.

Hearing him explain how a Lesage-encrusted acid-washed Canadian tuxedo was revisited with appliqué sequins or how a couture crocodile effect was expanded into a textured encrusted set that went from fluid dresses to stretch leggings is certainly a joy for the textile enthusiast.

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But what’s even better is that none of this turns his work fussy. Underpinning the season is the idea of an easy and party-ready summer, pushing further the ‘80s edge of his July couture toward “Flashdance” territory with a palette of bright colors, metallics, slouchy high boots and big-shoulders-cinched-waist silhouettes that was given the face of British model Iris Law in the season’s imagery.

Cue various twists and lengths for the power suit and slinky dresses of all persuasions, from liquid-looking ones to no-brainer T-shirt dresses. An opulent trench was developed into a whole range of beige separates that spelled timeless appeal, while a series of rhinestone-encrusted pieces would add pizzazz to any wardrobe.

Although all the Vauthier woman wants is “everything, and to live with [these clothes] all day long,” this isn’t about selling entire silhouettes, but offering options fit to be distilled as necessary. He said that he’d modeled his thinking after today’s younger consumers, who like to drop a style statement into, say, a thrifted wardrobe — like he did when he was younger.

A new bucket bag, in sizes ranging from micro to “everything and the kitchen sink” capacity, also participated in that idea of easy-breezy girls on the go.

Launch Gallery: Alexandre Vauthier RTW Spring 2023

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