Drawing in his silhouettes for fall, Albert Kriemler churned out a sensual lineup with an arty veneer but also made room for softness, thanks to a healthy helping of velvet, cashmere and shearling.
The designer was in high spirits ahead of the show. It’s not just that he was excited to present the clothing — and the remarkable luxury fabrics he conjured up for his audience this season — he was also pleased about landing the show venue: the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris. It was no small feat, and an initial deal for a space on the upper floor was scuppered by another exhibit.
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“I said, ‘Listen, there is so much connection to what’s hanging in your collection and my inspiration that we should reevaluate,’” he recalled.
Art-obsessed Kriemler had trained his focus on Robert Mallet-Stevens and other artists of his French Union of Modern Artists. Borrowing Cubist and graphic elements from the architect, Kriemler applied them to an all-black jumpsuit and jacket ensemble made of intricate St. Gallen embroidery — trim on top, loose and airy on the bottom. Thicker options carried blocks of autumnal tones, applied on a wool bouclé tweed and offered in layers, with tunics, skirts, capes and wrap coats — with a matching cap, worn jauntily, slightly shading one eye. Silhouettes also carried influence from Mallet-Stevens, and Kreimler built volumes — rooms, he called them — out of a black, sheer techno grid material that holds form, starting out with sleeves, then using it for a blouse and — crescendo-like — for the skirt of a ballgown with a silk crêpe bustier.
The Ai bag, its trapezoidal shape a brand centerpiece, turned up in fleece, too, and looked especially handsome in quilted leather.
As models marched past wall-sized paintings by Sonia Delaunay, with a view on the Eiffel Tower, shiny from a recent shower, one might wonder if the clothing could stand up to the venue. It did.
Launch Gallery: Akris RTW Fall 2020