Ask any dermatologist to speak on the importance of cleansing and they'll come back to you with a laundry list of reasons why it's a step you should never skip. The same goes for the importance of hydrating and protecting your skin after properly washing your face, which nearly all of us know by now means moisturizer and a non-negotiable layer of SPF.
What's less clear, however, is what you should do during the fleeting moments between cleansing and your next skin-care step, while your skin is still damp and dewy. An educated guess would suggest that most people dry the remaining water off with a towel, but isn't air-drying technically an option, too? Allure tapped several dermatologists to find out which method is superior, once and for all, and the verdict might just surprise you.
"Air-drying sounds nice in theory, but I’m way too busy to wait for my skin to dry on its own," says New York City-based dermatologist Shereene Idriss, who adds that there's a happy medium between rubbing your face dry and letting it dry on its own. Her technique? "The key is to be gentle and pat with a dabbing motion without being too aggressive, as that can lead to worsening of dryness or sensitivities," she explains.
Joshua Zeichner, another dermatologist based in New York City, notes the important difference between rubbing and patting with a towel. "It's one of the biggest mistakes my patients make," he explains. "Rubbing can lead to skin irritation and inflammation, so as long as you are using a clean towel, you always want to gently pat."
Aside from the annoyance of a dripping-wet face, Zeichner attests that there's actually no real problem with air-drying. "If you prefer not to pat, air-drying is fine as well, though it may not the most practical option."
On the flip side, Washington, D.C.-based dermatologist and G.W. residency program director, Adam Friedman doesn't recommend air-drying, saying it will do just that to your skin: dry it out. "Letting [your skin] air-dry or physically drying will do just that," he says. "It desiccates the top layer of the skin, making it rigid, and can prevent proper skin [cell] turnover, which results in peeling," he explains.
The best plan of action, according to Friedman, is to very lightly pat with a towel so that the skin is still damp when you go in with your toner, essence, serum, and moisturizer — or however many steps are in your skin-care routine — since this can subsequently lock in the hydration. (For tips on which order to apply different types of products, see our guide to layering your skin care.)
While the dermatologists we spoke with seemed to offer slightly different answers from one another, there are a few things everyone seems to agree on:
- Rubbing with a towel is a no-go.
- Gently patting your face with a clean towel is OK.
- If you moisturize when the skin is still damp, it seals in hydration and helps prevent against common concerns like dryness and irritation.
Whatever you choose, we'd advise asking your dermatologist for their insight on the matter since they'll be most familiar with your skin type and history. Another option is to simply try both and pay attention to how your complexion reacts when you pat versus air-dry. Just remember — pat, never rub.
Now read more on good skin-care habits:
- A Beginner's Guide to Double Cleansing and Why It's Important
- How to Layer Your Skin-Care Products in the Correct Order
- The Many Skin Benefits of Using a Humidifier in the Winter
Done reading? Now watch 100 years of face masks:
