Ahluwalia RTW Fall 2023
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Priya Ahluwalia channeled the sounds of her childhood into this polished and elegant coed show that took place in a baroque church (now a concert hall) near Westminster Abbey, weaving the music straight into the clothing, and into the production.
The British designer, whose family roots are in India and Nigeria, tapped a saxophonist and jazz pianist to perform live music by Bollywood, Afrobeat, soul and hip hop greats including Lauryn Hill, Luther Vandross, Sade and Fela Kuti.
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Prints and patterns reflected the sound waves of certain songs, or the ties on an Indian tabla drum.
Those waves, in various sizes and colors, washed over a chocolate miniskirt and a bright blue belted trouser suit, or as smudgy, low-key patterns on a denim jacket or mohair twinset.
The designer also drew from the style and stage looks of Hill and Sade, working bright stripes into a long-sleeved backless body suit, or mixing up hot, saturated shades — magenta, orange and hot pink — into a gutsy belted coat, a long gown with a flouncy neckline and cuffs, or sensual, curve-hugging knit dresses.
Denim, made with recycled cotton, was inspired by Hill, and came as a short hoodie dress with diagonal panels and an asymmetric hemline.
A long and slim fishtail denim skirt with a train may have proven difficult for the model to maneuver on the runway, but it looked spectacular paired with a shrunken denim jacket.
Ahluwalia added a few more high notes to this collection with branded footwear, eyewear, large silver “A” buckles on belts and tiny, tinkling A-shaped charms dangling from the edges of a cutout black minidress.
Launch Gallery: Ahluwalia RTW Fall 2023
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