How African Bush Camps is Taking Safari Guiding to a Whole New Level
Håkan Ludwigson
On a wet January morning at Somalisa Camp, in Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park, a tall, rangy paramedic named Elvis Tavengwa is instructing about three dozen bush guides on the finer points of first aid. “Come on,” he shouts at them, so animated he's almost hovering above the floor. “Your guest is in cardiac arrest. What are you going to do?” The guides, dressed in every imaginable shade of khaki and olive, look at one another, uncertain. “He's dying!” Elvis screams. “Chest compressions! I need chest compressions!” Several guides lurch forward to demonstrate on a dummy.
Each January during the rainy season, African Bush Camps (ABC), perhaps the continent's premier Black-owned safari company, closes all of its lodges in Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Botswana, and convenes its guides for a two-week retraining program, the most rigorous in the business. In addition to first aid, this gathering of the Zimbabwe guides will include refresher courses in shooting, tracking, stargazing, photography, and more. During my visit, in addition to Elvis's frantic pedagogy, I witness a workshop on the ABC values (authenticity, empowerment, conservation, collaboration, and care), a candid discussion among leadership about how to encourage more junior “learner” guides to take the steps to earn pro certification, and a team-building exercise during which the guides are given 20 pieces of spaghetti, 10 Band-Aids, a piece of string, and a marshmallow and charged with building a free-standing structure in under 20 minutes.
It's really not so different from a Western corporate retreat. Only instead of taking place in a suburban convention center, it's held in a delightfully classic, very remote tented camp in an acacia grove overlooking a water hole with a resident hippo. And as Elvis demonstrates the proper application of a tourniquet, things are happening out there. A waterbuck bounds by, the white circle on its rump bouncing up and down like a toilet seat that got stuck. Beks Ndlovu, the 47-year-old entrepreneur and former guide who founded ABC 18 years ago, summons me over to point out two lionesses prowling the ridgeline above an ancient dry riverbank.
Suddenly, a pack of wild dogs flashes by in hot pursuit of an impala. “You never know what's going to happen,” Beks says as we run off to commandeer a Land Cruiser. We can't find the dogs, only kudu and yellow-billed hornbills. But we do bump into Calvet Nkomo, a veteran guide who has worked at Somalisa since 2013 and is said to know more than anyone about the life histories of the lions in the area. He informs us that the lionesses have made their way into the neighboring Acacia Camp. We exit the Land Cruiser and approach them by foot, watching from behind a fallen log as they loll about, take a few steps, then collapse to the ground again, too stuffed from a recent meal to move. It sure beats a morning coffee break in a drab lobby amid acres of wall-to-wall carpeting.
Beks, a native Zimbabwean, has known this swath of Hwange National Park for more than two decades, since he was guiding for the nearby Makolo Camp and used to sneak guests into the area. After two years of lobbying the Zimbabwean government, he secured the tender and opened Somalisa in 2006 with an emphasis on premium guiding. A few nights earlier, I'd heard Beks tell its origin story to a group of guests at Khwai Lediba, one of ABC's newest camps, on the edge of the Okavango Delta. “You know that thing they say?” he asked. “‘If you build it, they will come’? It isn't true.” But the success of his second camp, Linyanti, in Botswana, helped subsidize Somalisa, and today it is the flagship property of a company that employs around 650 people, including the 60 guides Beks refers to as the company's “superpower.” “We can have the best hideaway, the best design, the shiniest copper bars,” he tells them one morning. “But without you guys and your storytelling, we have nothing.”
Many of the guides tell me that these training programs, along with the ability to rotate among the ABC properties and learn new skills, are what brought them to ABC. “You work at various camps and you always hear about a certain company,” says Michael Tsoka, who came to Somalisa two years ago. “This was always where I wanted to work.” Paul Hobbs, an archaeologist who'd come to give a talk on the colorful history of Hwange National Park, says that ABC increasingly serves as an incubator for guides who go on to work for other outfitters. “Very few companies in this country understand how important retraining is,” he says, “and ABC has set the bar very high.”
In 2021, the company adopted a new mandate to cultivate women guides, in an industry that has long been resistant to them, through its foundation's new ABCF Female Guides program. Its goal is for a minimum of 25 percent of its guides to be women by 2030. During a subsequent stop on my trip at Thorntree River Lodge, near Victoria Falls in Zambia, I would meet one of ABCF's first students, Zita Hwambe. Many African men “believe that a woman's role is in the kitchen,” she says. “But they're warming up to us, because they know we're here to stay.”
Before I head to Thorntree, however, I go on a last sundowner with the Zimbabwe guides at Somalisa. From a hide, I watch, G&T in hand, as a pair of hyenas scamper past a water hole. It's probably the best happy hour I've ever been to. On our way back to camp, I tell Calvet about seeing the lionesses. He says that they were born to one of the daughters of Cecil, the famous lion who was shot by a trophy hunter just outside of Hwange in 2015, prompting an international outcry. After I process that, I remark on how lucky I felt to be there, with people who know so much about this beautiful land and its difficult history.
“Yes, you are,” he says, with the most serious expression he can muster. Then his face lights up in an enormous smile. “Yes, you are.”
African Bush Camps
Established: 2003
Areas of operation: Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe
Goals: No plastics on site by 2025; no plastics in the supply chain by 2030; 25% women guides by 2030
Next opening: Atzaró Okavango, Botswana
This article appeared in the April 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler
