How To Adapt the Curly Girl Method for Wavy Hair: 9 Steps
Holly Rhue
If you have curly hair, it's very likely that you've heard of the "Curly Girl Method" that went (rightfully) viral a few years ago. Author and beauty brand founder Lorraine Massey coined this method in her 2002 book Curly Girl: More Than Just Hair... It's An Attitude, and it's still practiced and celebrated in salons 20 years later. And, if you're reading this, you probably have wavy hair and are looking for a "Wavy Girl Method" you can adopt.
Hairstylist Joseph Maine explains that the traditional "Curly Girl Method" refers to a specific technique of treating and applying products to curly hair for it to look optimally. Since curly and wavy hair is obviously not the same, the way we approach treating and styling it shouldn't be either. Just because the "Curly Girl Method" works for certain curl types, doesn't necessarily mean those same steps will work for people with waves. "Wavy hair is typically less coarse and may require some modifications to [the Curly Girl Method]," explains Maine.
So, we tapped two hair experts and asked them to share how they would modify the original technique for a fool-proof "Wavy Girl Method." Below, find the nine steps they consider essential to locking down your new go-to hair styling approach.
Meet The Experts
Nubia Rëzo is a curly hair expert educator, owner of Rëzo Salon in New York City, and the founder of and product formulator for Rëzo Hair Care.
Joseph Maine is a New York City-based hairstylist and artistic director at Color Wow Hair. His clients include Kate McKinnon, Ashley Benson, and Alexis Ren.
Remove Buildup With a Gentle Cleanser
Like most hair routines, the Wavy Girl Method begins with a proper cleanse. "No-poo shampoos are typically filled with conditioning agents that can often weigh hair down or create buildup on the scalp," notes Maine. "Wavy hair does not need weight in order to feel controlled. I typically recommend starting with a gentle cleanser that will remove product buildup while keeping the hair's natural moisture in place."
"My personal favorite is Color Wow’s Color Security Shampoo ($24), which is as gentle on the hair cuticle as water alone but leaves the hair and scalp feeling fresh and clean," Maine continues. "You can follow with a lightweight conditioner or something a little more moisturizing, depending on your needs."
Condition (But Don't Overdo it)
After cleansing, it's important to gently condition the hair to add softness and shine. The Curly Girl Method gives you the option to deep condition and leave product in the hair. The Wavy Girl Method, however, calls for rinsing the hair and leaving in only a little (if any) conditioner. "Unless you really understand the consistency of the conditioner, I typically don’t recommend leaving in conditioner for wavy hair types," says Maine.
Comb Hair While It's Wet
The Curly Girl Method states that you should ditch the comb and opt for fingers to avoid ripping tangles, preventing breakage and frizz. While The Wavy Girl Method doesn't completely rule out the comb, Maine always recommends combing or brushing while the conditioner is in the hair. Make sure to use a wide-tooth comb for the best results.
Remove Excess Water With a Towel
Avoiding heat damage is important regardless of hair type. Rëzo advises removing excess water post-wash by squeezing the hair out with a plush microfiber towel. Maine concurs: "It's best to use a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt to remove excess moisture before adding product," he says.
Add (the Right) Products
Protecting your hair with the right products is a crucial step in any routine that involves heat and styling. "My favorite product for emphasizing waves, adding moisture, and bundling the waves is Color Wow’s Dream Coat Curly ($24)," says Maine. "It’s a water-based spray that is completely weightless while being extremely effective at giving hold without the crunch."
Air Dry With the 'Hair Plopping' Technique
Once again, the experts agree that if you can avoid heat styling, you should. "The best thing you can do is ‘hair plopping,’" says Maine. "Lay a cotton t-shirt or silk scarf on a flat surface, flip your head over onto the fabric and wrap the bundled hair close to your head. Allow it to dry this way and you will have bouncy waves without any frizz."
Use a Diffuser to Speed Up Drying
That being said, if you're in a rush, towel-drying may not be the most time-efficient method. When in a pinch, both Rëzo and Maine recommend using a diffuser to dry the hair. "Diffuse until the hair is completely dry, and finish off with one drop of our Rëzo Curl Manifest Hair Serum ($65)," Rëzo says. "Afterward, do a good Rëzo shake, stimulating the root area by moving your hands back and forth."
Add Curl Definition with Hot Tools
"Always remember, the smaller the barrel, the tighter the curls will be, which is important to keep in mind whether you’re looking to rock beachy waves or want something a bit more springy," notes Rëzo.
As for the details, Rëzo shares, "for fine hair, you will want to divide the hair into small, vertical sections and, using a small-barrel curling iron, curl the hair and enjoy the amazing volume. For thicker hair, you will take the vertical sections and use a big barrel on smaller sections, creating sexy, flowing beach waves. For natural and more textured hair, we recommend using a 2 to 2 ½ inch curling iron barrel on bigger sections since you don’t need to have as much volume added to the hair."
Prep Hair for Heat
Whether you're using a diffuser or a curling wand to get your desired look, Rëzo says it's crucial to apply a heat protectant before using a hot tool. Excessive heat will not only damage the hair and dry it out, but it can also weaken your natural curl pattern and integrity. So, consider it an investment in your wavy girl lifestyle.
So whether or not the Wavy Girl Method officially exists on paper or in a book, using the experts' advice—along with some key products, patience, and a little styling—you can achieve a perfect, foolproof wave.
Read the original article on Byrdie.
