Act N.1 RTW Fall 2023

A popular myth is that for a marriage to be successful the bride should wear something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue on wedding day. But what clothes might ensure a prosperous divorce? In his first solo effort since parting ways with cofounder Galib Gassanoff earlier this month, Act N.1’s Luca Lin seems to have ticked all four of the same boxes, but in reverse.

Set to a slow-mo tempo, the collection opened with a focus on denim pieces cut in loose proportions, as seen in ample cargo pants, baggy jeans and oversize shirts, as well as in deconstructed jackets or cropped ones revealing nude tulle corsets. A series of indigo see-through shirts and long skirts were printed with animal motifs, which also appeared on pajama sets in the same colors.

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A capsule collection of printed silk separates fell under the borrowing category, too, as Lin developed it in collaboration with Kulsum Shadab Wahab’s brand Ara Lumiere. A portion of sale proceeds will be devolved to a project in support of women survivors of acid attacks.

This is part of an approach Lin would like to take at the brand, which has always investigated social themes in its lineups but which he’s now committed to backing with concrete initiatives.

Fashion-wise, novelty was offered by a punkish vibe introduced via spikes and studs on pants and accessories, as well as by the brand’s first incursion into knitwear via pastel-hued cardigans.

The textures added to tulle — the fabric the brand is most associated with — that was patchworked into a diamond pattern in slipdresses and men’s shirts, before taking its familiar form in the ruffles that spice up Act N.1’s tailored pieces. These were still among the strongest styles, along with deconstructed trenchcoats reworked into strapless or one-shouldered frocks and the signature showstopping tulle gowns that have won over the likes of Lizzo and Beyoncé in the last few months.

All in all, this was a collection marked by continuity, offering little insight into any new direction the brand might take. After all, Act N.1 wasn’t the child of an abrupt divorce: Gassanoff sat in the front row and led the applause.

Launch Gallery: ACT N.1 RTW Fall 2023

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