'90s Calling: Backstage Beauty at the Christopher John Rogers Resort 2023 Show
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Designer Christopher John Rogers is known for his unique takes on bold prints and pops of color, a sampling of which were seen during his resort 2023 show last Tuesday at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. The show marked Rogers's return to the runway after the pandemic, and was well worth the wait. On the beauty front, the show featured wet-look, '90s-inspired hairstyles crafted with amika products. From spiky knotted updos to straight back cornrows, each style was envisioned by amika global artistic director Naeemah LaFond.
"The main look for the CJR resort 2023 collection is a spiked, corkscrewed knot—I took inspiration from hair I saw growing up back in the '90s in Brooklyn," LaFond tells BAZAAR.com. "It was all about the banana curl, and that technique is so specific: saturating the hair with a lot of product, then going back in with the flat iron to create that firm look."
In true CJR style, the look felt utterly today. "We used those same techniques to create that spiked look here, but modernized it a little more," LaFond says. "Back in the day, it was a little more elaborate, so we wanted the looks to be cleaner, but we still kept one or two spikes to give the hair some dimension and drama as the models walk down the runway. We also incorporated the spikes into the cornrows—so the girls are cornrowed back, and we have two smaller spikes coming out of those so they can also be a part of the overall aesthetic."
In addition to knotted and braided hairstyles, LaFond also incorporated a number of angular bob looks throughout show, which were each hand-cut and styled with wigs. "We didn't put spikes on the wigs," she adds, "but we added some edge and pointedness into the bags of the bob so they have the same angular feel."
LaFond and the rest of the amika team used the brand's Headstrong Intense Hold Hairspray, Curl Corps Curl Enhancing Hair Gel, and Top Gloss Hair Shine Spray to power each sleek look, in addition to the following steps.
Cut 1.5-inch pieces of wefted hair and spray generously with Headstrong Intense Hold Hairspray. Next, straighten the hair with a flat iron and cut its ends to create a pointed shape.
Smooth the hair into a high pony with the Curl Corps Enhancing Gel using a grooming brush and secure it in place with a bungee hair tie.
Wrap the base of the ponytail with a small piece of hair.
Pin two spikes onto the base of the ponytail using bobby pins.
Separate the ponytail into two pieces and saturate it with the Curl Corps Enhancing Gel.
Twist each piece of hair into the base of the pony in a twirling motion and secure it with pins.
Finish by spraying the Top Gloss Shine Spray for high shine.
To complement the show's sculpted hairstyles and singular fashion looks, bright lip shades were applied by celebrity artist Michaela Bosch, as well as a new nail design named The Clear Cut, created exclusively for the show by Tenoverten. The Clear Cut featured a bold stripe of color on one half of each nail, accompanied by a clear accent on the other. "This season, we're all about having fun with your nails," Tenoverten cofounder and head of brand Nadine Abramcyk says. "The Clear Cut is a quick and easy design that elevates your manicure to the next level. For Christopher John Rogers's resort 2023 show, we tapped into the colorful and joyous styles seen on the runway with our range of colorful tones from Tenoverten."
The striking yet minimal looks seen across hair, makeup, and nails expertly paired with the vibrancy of Rogers's latest collection. Each style provided modern inspiration for both fashion and beauty lovers alike, while channeling some of the most unique ideas from the past to help usher in the future.
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