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Boat shoes are the perfect sockless casual slip-on. No other footwear can transition as seamlessly from a boat ride to a restaurant to lazing around on a porch as these stylish yet casual must-haves. They can also do the job of indoor/outdoor house slippers.
For those who already have a pair in their rotation, there's probably still more to learn about the history, the construction differences, and the range of comfort with boat shoes—from thin-soled options that let you feel the deck of a sailboat to more cushioned styles you can walk in for hours.
I've tried them all and am here to report back which ones are the right fit for various purposes. Our best overall pick for a great boat shoe is the Sebago Docksides Portland Crazy Horse. Its simple construction and uniquely durable leather makes this a long-lasting classic that'll work well on or off the water.
What Makes Boat Shoes Special (and Uniquely American)?
Paul Sperry invented boat shoes in the 1930s after falling overboard on his sailboat because of slippery soles. At the time, boat shoes were made of canvas with either crepe soles or rope soles—the former slippery when wet and the latter slippery when dry.
Sperry, a tinkerer, went to work in his home workshop in Connecticut on making a non-slip sole what would keep him "Top-Side." Inspired by his dog’s paws as he ran easily over snow and ice in his back yard, Sperry used a blade to cut lines in a rubber sole, and by applying pressure from different directions he landed on a zigzag pattern—now known as "siping"—which is key to the boat shoe’s nonslip factor.
His original models were canvas, but he soon improved upon them by using a leather upper of a moccasin style. “The moccasin is the original athletic shoe,” says Kyle Rancourt, of Maine shoemaker Rancourt & Company. “Sperry just combined the need for a non-slip sole with a comfy moccasin.”
A big order from Abercrombie & Fitch catapulted Sperry’s invention to nationwide notoriety, and they became the official shoe of the U.S. Navy during World War II. Even John F. Kennedy wore them while he was running his PT-109 missions in the South Pacific.
But why do we associate them with Maine if their inventor was from Connecticut? “Maine was the largest shoemaking area in the country in the 20th century,” explains Rancourt, “The peak was the 1950s, with dozens of shoe factories in Maine, like Bass, Dexter, and Quoddy—a rich shoemaking heritage combined with coastal culture and lifestyle.”
What to Look For in Boat Shoes
Get the sole that’s right for you. The traditional boat shoe sole is a white non-marking sole with siping—tiny cuts that provide traction while you’re on the wet deck of a boat. Camp Mocs are similar to boat shoes, but have a brown, pebbled sole. While most of these are still non-marking, they won’t provide the same traction on wet surfaces. That said, they can be slightly better at traction on dry surfaces. The outlier is a hybrid boat shoe like the Timberland below, that has lug soles which make it suitable for hiking.
Leather, suede, or canvas? That depends. The original Top-Siders were made of canvas, and later upgraded to leather. Canvas has the advantage of being less expensive, and a synthetic canvas can hold up better to being soaked in water without drying out. Leather, especially a good Horween, will be far superior in comfort, and because of the high wax content they still hold up well if they get wet. Suede boat shoes are definitely better for those who are wearing them more for style than nautical function.
How much cushion do you need? Foot support is not a strong suit for boat shoes. If you’re spending hours on a sailboat, you really want to feel the boat deck under your feet, so the thin soles and limited (or non-existent) padding makes sense. But, if you want to walk in them for long periods of time, something like the Sperry Gold Cup has more ankle cushioning, and the full leather linings of the Quoddy boat shoes also provide more cushion.
Mass-produced versus hand-made? This will likely come down to budget, but if you want a pair of fine handmade boat shoes made in Maine, the cost will be significantly higher. The difference between sliding your feet into a made-in-Maine boat shoe and a mass-produced version is significant—and the price reflects that.
I've been covering gear and style from a home base in Los Angeles and now Charleston since 2006, for outlets including The Wall Street Journal, Wired, Maxim, Gear Patrol, Fatherly, and Men’s Journal. Whether it’s testing out gear, bags, clothing, and accessories on my own adventures, or profiling designers and craftspeople who make it, it’s been one continuous process of discovery, and an ongoing search for the essentials that bring joy, serve a purpose, and add value to our experiences.
Ever since I moved to the Southern capital of boat shoes, Charleston, SC, they have become part of my daily routine for nine months out of the year. In a land of warm weather, water, and boats, these slip-on staples are as much workwear as fashion. Over the past eight years, I've owned many pairs, worn most of them ragged, and have developed some strong opinions on the subject.
These are the best boat shoes you can buy today. From those that you can own for a lifetime and re-sole over and over, to dressier models you can easily wear to dinner with a sport coat, to more active options that you can truly batter on the open seas.
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