Among jewelry insiders, the Couture show in Las Vegas is the place to discover designer talent and trends — full stop. Often the best collections have a ripple effect in the jewelry trade, kickstarting crazes for gems (pearls!), artisanal techniques (plique a jour enamel!), and styles (lavish necklaces!) sure to capture hearts and minds over the coming holiday. Below, we highlight a number of brands that introduced noteworthy collections — get ’em while supplies last!

Harwell Godfrey

Lauren Harwell Godfrey is on a roll. Literally. The designer’s new fine jewelry collection, “Other Dimensions,” is the product of a year of research into beads and how to integrate them into her color-intense range. The pieces feature gemstone beads worked directly into the gold and housed inside a handmade mechanism that allows each one to spin and roll, resulting in a delightfully tactile wearing experience. The standout pieces include a jaw-dropping 18k gold medallion distinguished by the intricate pattern work — in this case, beads of turquoise, citrine, pink sapphire and diamonds — that has become a brand signature, as well as a matching 18k gold cuff. “The collection name stems from the intentional dimensionality of the pieces,” says the designer, who hails from Northern California’s Marin County. “There are both raised and inset elements that I had a lot of fun designing.” That joyfulness extends to the rest of Hardwell Godfrey’s work — such as her Cleopatra-esque Totem pendant, which took home the Couture Design Award for “Best in Colored Gemstones under $20,000.” Huzzah! Harwellgodfrey.com

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Totem pendant with pink spinel and turquoise inlay (top); tanzanite, fire opal, turquoise inlay and white onyx halo (middle); peridot and turquoise inlay (bottom) with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $17,550 (on Snake chain, $9,950)

Harwell Godfrey

Turquoise Baht chain in 18k yellow gold and turquoise; $7,950

Harwell Godfrey

Harwell Godfrey

Turquoise bead medallion in 18k yellow gold with turquoise, citrine, pink sapphire and diamonds; $11,950

Harwell Godfrey

Bead cuff in 18k yellow gold with turquoise, citrine, sapphires, diamonds and lapis; price upon request

Lotus Arts de Vivre

Although the principals of Bangkok-based Lotus Arts de Vivre were not able to attend Couture in person due to Covid-related travel restrictions, their fantastical creations — for the body and the home — made a memorable appearance. The brand, best known for its bold jewelry designs combining precious stones with organic materials such as snakeskin, scarab beetle wings and rare exotic woods, earned first place in the Couture Awards’ “Best in Haute Couture” category for an antique Japanese fan necklace featuring carved red lacquer supports, buffalo horn and rose-cut diamonds. Oversized in scale and rich with history, the piece was the epitome of Lotus’ truly one-of-a-kind homages to Asian heritage. Lotusartsdevivre.com

Lotus Art de Vivre

Antique Japanese fan necklace in 18k gold and sterling silver with red lacquer, buffalo horn, 11.31 carats of rose-cut diamonds, emerald and baroque pearl; $125,450

Messika Paris

At its private villa at the Wynn, Messika showcased its deluxe diamond jewelry collaboration with jewelry lover Kate Moss, inspired by the supermodel’s rich trove of antique jewelry. “I just love diamonds,” Moss told Harper’s Bazaar last October, when the collection debuted during Paris Fashion Week. “I love looking at them. I love playing with them.” With Moss’ help, Valérie Messika channeled that passion into a collection of diamond-dusted high jewels meant to drape across the body like stylized tattoos. In both the Spirited Wind and Twisted Wave necklaces, for example, Messika combines emerald- and brilliant-cut stones and an appreciation for asymmetry to distinguish the pieces. In the former, lines of pointed diamonds draw the eye to the collarbone, while in the latter, the diamonds form a knot in the shape of the letter “K” (for “knock-out,” we presume?!). Messika.com

Messika

Spirited Wind diamond necklace; price on request

Twisted Wave diamond necklace; price on request

Retrouvaí

Many people rediscovered the joy of puzzles during last year’s lockdowns. Kirsty Stone, the designer behind Los Angeles-based Retrouvaí, took that inspiration several steps further. At Couture, she unveiled her Impetus collection of puzzle-inspired pendants and rings featuring interlocking shapes of gemstones meant to convey a powerful idea: “That we are each individually part of a much larger picture,” she says. The larger Interlocking styles feature beguiling combinations of colors and stones — green tourmaline and pink opal, for example — while the smaller puzzle piece pendants really do fit together, offering a new twist on the standard “best friend” necklace. The collection even includes solitaire rings, such as the 18k gold and oval diamond stunner that earned Retrouvaí a first-place win in the Couture Design Awards’ “Best in Bridal” category. Retrouvai.com

Retrouvai

Impetus Collection Puzzle ring in 18k gold with oval diamond; price on request

Retrouvai

Impetus Interlocking Puzzle pendant in 18k gold with green tourmaline in pink opal; $9,500

Rosa Van Parys

For her debut at Couture, Rosa Van Parys doubled down on the promise implicit in her slogan, “Elegance with an edge,” by showing a raft of jewels that combined large, lustrous pearls with her signature dagger motif. An architect by training and profession (she and her husband run a boutique firm, Van Parys Architecture & Design, focusing on residential projects in upscale Southern California enclaves like Malibu and Newport Beach), Van Parys brings her innate sense of symmetry and her love of fine materials to the medium. Her sophisticated yet sexy jewels use the notion of contrast — between the soft, organic pearls and the hard, faceted surfaces of diamonds and colored stones — to brilliant effect. Rosavanparys.com

Rosa Van Parys

Trinity Pearl Dagger pendant on Rebel necklace in 18k gold with golden South Sea, Tahitian and Australian pearls and diamonds; $60,657

Rosa Van Parys

Rockstar Pearls + Messy Chains Necklace No. 3 in 18k gold with akoya pearls and diamonds, a turquoise carved heart, removable Gothic script initial letter in 18k gold, two full pave diamond dagger pendants, and RVP diamond charm; $59,957

Studio Renn

Couture marked Studio Renn’s first international exhibition, but it surely won’t be the last for the Mumbai-based design studio founded by husband-and-wife Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri. The brand earned a first-place prize in the “Best of Innovative” category at the Couture Design Awards for its Strangler ring, made of acid-treated concrete and diamonds, a meditation on atrophy. “Why do we expect things to be permanent?” says Rahul. “That led to us making a concrete ring reinforced with gold and diamonds. Right at the end we put it in acid because we wanted to embrace atrophy.” Studio Renn’s luxurious yet deeply philosophical approach to jewelry was also evident in (An)otherness, an evolving collection of about 80 pieces that grew from a series of custom sketches by the contemporary artist Prashant Salvi, as well as brand new work from the Cacti collection, which features princess- and French-cut diamonds set between serrated edges and held inside folds of blackened gold. For lovers of fine jewelry with an artistic soul, Studio Renn is one to watch. Studiorenn.com

Studio Renn

Strangler ring in acid-treated concrete ring reinforced with blackened 18k gray gold and brilliant-cut diamonds; $8,000

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