5 Must-Know Tips for Ladies with Natural Hair
Whether you want to blow it straight, create looser curls or lean into tighter coils, here are five things ladies with natural hair need to know, according to badass hairstylist, salon owner and creator of The Doux (a cult-favorite hair-care line) Maya Smith.
Wash Gently
Just because hair appears thick and coiled doesn’t mean it’s strong enough to withstand heavy manipulation. Per Smith, “In my experience, these hair types are actually the most delicate, and should be handled with care.”
Reconsider Co-Washing
Also called “conditioner-only washing,” this technique entails, quite literally, eschewing shampoo and only using conditioner. It’s popular, but Smith warns that it’s akin to washing your clothes with fabric softener. “In my experience, co-washing causes build-up on the hair and impairs its natural ability to absorb water. The result is hair that feels dry and brittle, no matter what product you use to moisturize it.” So yes, you should condition, but only after shampooing.
Understand the Difference Between Oil and Moisture
Namely, that they’re not the same and shouldn’t be treated as such. “Due to the shape of curly strands, the hair tends to be under-moisturized,” Smith says. “On the other hand, the curly-haired scalp can get very oily. Managing these opposite demands is the struggle of girls who wish to keep their curls.”
Avoid Alcohol
Styling products with alcohol, that is, which Smith says suck up moisture and give curls a crunchy feel. “I recommend water-soluble gels that don't feel sticky on your skin, and aerated mousses or foams that resemble beaten egg whites, to give hair fullness, control and non-brittle curls,” Smith says.
Blow-Dry with a Diffuser
Or a hooded dryer. Smith’s first choice for curly styles is to air-dry, but she adds, “If you don’t have the time to air-dry, then dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer on a low heat setting. A regular blow-dryer nozzle disrupts the curl pattern and focuses hot air on one small section at a time, while a diffuser dries curls evenly for a full, uniform look.” After applying a heat-protecting product, Maya recommends flipping your head upside down using a diffuser at the roots at mid-length, tackling the ends last and leaving them only semi-dry.
