4 New Men’s Jewelry Collections That Add a Masculine Edge to Gold, Gems, and More
During the holidays, men often get short shrift when it comes to jewelry. This year, however, a cohort of fine jewelers who’ve built multidecade careers on designing for women are, for the first time, giving their male and gender-neutral clients something to talk about.
Rife with minimalist and maximalist styles, diamond-centric and gemstone-heavy, the four collections highlighted below embody a new era in male adornment that embraces a singular ethos: When it comes to masculine style, anything—truly anything—goes.
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Joon by Shahla
Shahla Karimi debuted her eponymous brand of fine jewelry in 2014, but it took until late last year for her to offer her first dedicated men’s collection. Named Joon, after a Farsi term of endearment, the line emerged from the countless custom requests Karimi had fielded from male clients over the years.
The 15-piece collection, designed to evoke the architecture of New York City, includes rings, signets, and bands with sliding wraps in platinum, gold, and mixed metal, with and without diamonds (she offers both lab-grown and natural options). “This is essentially the same design language as the pieces under the Shahla brand,” Karimi says, “but from a more masculine perspective.”
AeZeus Baldwin
In 2022, Katey Brunini, a Solana Beach, Calif.-based jeweler who specializes in one-of-a-kind designs, was shooting the breeze with her old friend Jeffrey Baldwin (in the 1980s, the two were “beach rats” in San Diego’s North County, she says) when they started riffing on fashion, art, and culture.
“There were a lot of commonalities, and we decided, ‘You know what, let’s do a men’s collection,’” Brunini tells Robb Report.
The product of their collaboration, AeZeus Baldwin, debuted in March. A 70-piece collection of masculine jewels, ranging from $250 pocket squares made of vintage Japanese kimonos to $60,000 yellow diamond necklaces, the range is united by a shared sense of zeitgeisty-ness.
“All of our core design elements aligned with what is going on in current events: upcycled materials, small batch production, desire to create beauty, discussion of gender fluidity in culture, Japanese influence, and young fashion icons like Harry Styles, Pharrell, and Tyler, the Creator,” Brunini says. “The window opened, and we flew through.”
Janela and Roda by Moritz Glik
Over the years, Moritz Glik, the New York-based designer best known for his vast collection of Kaleidoscope Shaker designs—the styles contain tiny fragments of gems enclosed by white sapphire windowpanes—sporadically designed bespoke men’s pieces.
In 2021, he threw his hat into the gender-neutral arena with a few cigar bands, and in 2022, he introduced a capsule that included a one-of-a-kind men’s necklace. This past year, however, was the year Glik went all in on offerings for the boys, with the debut of two full collections, Janela and Roda, that are almost entirely gender-neutral.
The Hex and Hiroki necklaces from the Janela line, which take their inspiration from roof lanterns and oriel windows (a protruding set of bay windows often found on Victorian homes), are especially fetching. Meanwhile, the Roda collection—named after the Portuguese word for “wheel,” a nod to Glik’s Brazilian heritage—also features numerous necklaces with masculine overtones.
Walters Faith Men’s
As the 10th anniversary of their fine jewelry brand, Walters Faith, approached, co-founders Stephanie Walters Abramow and Mollie Faith Good decided it was high time they introduced an official men’s line, in honor of the fact that men had been gravitating to their jewels for years.
“Because Walters Faith is all about the synthesis of bold and fine, we’ve always had these really chunky pieces that lend themselves to both men and women,” designer and co-founder Mollie Faith Good tells Robb Report. “And because it’s the 10th anniversary of our company, we thought it was perfect timing.”
Introduced in June, the men’s collection includes rings, bracelets, necklaces and pendants that borrow motifs from Walters Faith’s popular signature lines and execute them in masculine materials, from blackened silver to black spinel.
“The entry for men’s is $250 for rings in sterling,” Good says. “For holiday, we’re launching black diamond necklaces and bracelets that are $10,000. We’ll see what the sweet spot is.”
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