The 23 Best Sushi Restaurants in Tokyo, from Michelin Star Omakase to Conveyer Belt Bars

What were your first impressions when you arrived? Traditionalists be damned: Owner and sommelier Yoshinobu Kimura launched this restaurant to explore the potential of sushi as an international cuisine, paired with super-premium sake and wine.

What’s the crowd like? The "m" stands for mariage, the French word for drinks pairing, and many of the the guests are sake and wine connoisseurs rather than sushi purists.

What should we be drinking? Formerly of Narisawa, Yoshinobu Kimura is one of the best sommeliers in Asia, and he brings his background in chemistry to bear when creating food-and-beverage matches. There's a wine cellar stocked with 400-plus bottles, and a special sake refrigerator that chills brews down to -13 degrees Celsius.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. It's fusion in the way we like—seafood prepared with contemporary techniques and international influences. A dish of swordfish and grilled corn topped with caviar is served alongside classic pieces of sushi like vinegar-marinated kohada gizzard shad, which Kimura pairs with Domaine Chaud Skin Dive, a natural orange wine from Japan. Rock oyster with marinated vegetables and tarragon foam is a match for sparkling Kido sake from Wakayama Prefecture.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Fastidious, knowledgeable, and suave.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? It's a luxe experience, for sure. But on weekends, they offer a fabulous lunch for ¥8,800. Sushi for brunch? Yes, please.