The 2024 Watches & Wonders Fantasy Draft
Thomas Chene
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I’m still coming down from my annual bout of Watch & Wonders fever. The only cure, naturally, is more watches. So this week, I orchestrated a meeting with three other Watch Illuminati members to conduct a draft of the very best pieces that debuted during the fair. I could have made this super straightforward—a simple selection of our favorite watches—but that’s not what I did.
THE RULES
The draft was conducted snake style, meaning the order was reversed from round to round.
Of course, a watch could not be selected more than once.
Over the draft’s five rounds, each of the draftees were asked (forced) to fill the following categories:
One watch over $100,000: The piece you would choose if you had a fairy-watch-mother in the Palexpo.
One watch under $5,000: Because everyone needs an affordable daily driver in the rotation.
One watch from a brand that didn’t show on the main floor: This includes makers from the Carré des Horlogers section, where the smaller (and often independent) brands show, as well as companies who held presentations off the grounds entirely. (I disqualified Bulgari—which presented in a hotel suite overlooking Lake Geneva—from this category, since it’s owned by LVMH.)
Two wild card selections: Meaning any watches you please!
While introducing the draft to the participants, I explained the categories might lead to some gamesmanship. For instance: If you believe the Nomos Tangente is by far the best under-$5,000 watch, you might choose to pick it first to keep it from someone else. As you’ll see, I may have given my competitors too good of an idea with that example.
Meet our participants:
A very huge thank you to our draftees, who endured my many emails and pestering DMs this week. I’ll list them in the order that they drafted:
Charity Mhende, @pulseonthewrist, watch collector and content creator
Chris Hall, @chrisjameshall, Mr Porter's senior watch editor and founder of “The Fourth Wheel” newsletter
Austen Chu, @horoloupe, Wristcheck founder and CEO
Moi
After much ado:
ROUND 1
1. Charity
Under $5,000: Nomos Tangente
“The Nomos Tangente is a playful and adaptable watch that adds a little personality to your collection. Simple, elegant, with beautiful pops of color, it offers something for everyone, making it a perfect way to celebrate 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking.”
2. Chris
Over $100,000: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph
“Damn. Cam, I blame you for planting that Nomos idea. [Ed. note: Sorry!!] This Vacheron fills my ‘showstopper’ slot. There was a lot of platinum on show in Geneva—as well as a lot of monopusher chronographs—and this was one of the most impressive on both fronts. I'm really not a tourbillon guy, but if you’re going to have one, a Vacheron Constantin is it. I’m a big fan of the Maltese cross tourbillon cage.”
3. Austen
Wild Card: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
“I love the new Toric petite seconds in platinum with the green dial. Personally, my favorite dress watch from W&W. I love the hand graining on the dial and the architecture of the 18-karat gold movement.
4. Cam
Wild Card: Cartier Tortue Platinum Time-Only
“I was just about to pick that exact watch, Austen! Instead I’ll ‘settle’ for what is probably the watch from the fair I most want to add to my personal collection. The Tortue shape captures the magic of all great Cartier pieces by drumming up a distinctive shape—one that’s instantly recognizable as the Parisian jeweler’s—that can be worn every single day.”
ROUND 2
5. Cam
Under $5,000: Tudor Black Bay 58 “Coke”
“Honestly, more strategy than anything. I'm leaving some pieces I really love up for grabs here. I like this watch a lot, though, and it ranks way higher in my under-$5,000 category than anything else on the board. Even the mini Cartiers are $7,000!”
6. Austen
Wild Card: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” in Yellow Gold
“The Daytona is such an incredible watch that pays tribute to the past (with the Paul Newman dial), but also looks into the future with the new 24-hour chronograph and open caseback. I wish the subdials were champagne like the [John Player Special] though.”
7. Chris
Off the Main Floor: Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
“Another monopusher! I like the idea of a one-minute chrono with a tachy scale. It's focused, sleek, allows for a cleaner dial, and sidesteps the question of whether you'd ever really use a chronograph to time anything for hours and hours.”
8. Charity
Over $100,000: Piaget Swinging Sautoir
“Who doesn’t love a timepiece that doubles as a pendant? This convertible masterpiece transcends the ordinary by transforming from a dazzling necklace to an elegant wristwatch, offering unparalleled versatility.”
ROUND 3
9. Charity
Off the Main Floor: Buci x Seconde/Seconde
“These watches elevate timekeeping to an art form. Crafted with poetry in mind, they offer something special and personal. The unisex watches have a very accessible price point and versatile design, which makes them perfect for any wearer, adding a touch of artistic expression to any style.”
10. Chris
Wild Card: Grand Seiko SLGW002/SLGW003 “White Birch”
“Talk about one for the purists: A high-beat, hand-wound Grand Seiko caliber is, in the right circles, something of a grail. I have to admit I fell for it on more superficial grounds: The eponymous tree-bark pattern of the dial hooked me instantly. Somehow rotating the direction of the grain 90 degrees has made a world of difference.”
11. Austen
Off the Main Floor: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton
“Moser absolutely crushed it with this watch. I’m a sucker for skeletonized pieces and absolutely love the symmetry of the movement. This watch wears like a 38- or 39-mm watch, and it’s great value for money considering the craftsmanship and the complication.”
12. Cam
Wild Card: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
“For the second consecutive year, Chopard left Watches & Wonders with one of the fair’s biggest hits. Last year it was the salmon-dial L.U.C 1860. This year, for me, it’s this Quattro Spirit with its tidy jumping hours display. The pared-down design really allows the hypnotizing black dial to shine. Bilal Khan, a senior editor at WatchTime magazine, really captured it the best in this photo. The dial almost has the appearance of wet paint.”
ROUND 4
13. Cam
Off the Main Floor: De Bethune Kind of Grande Complication
“I went back and forth between this and DB’s other novelty, the Purple Rain. This fulfills the off-Palexpo category for me, for which I also heavily considered H. Moser’s new Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. Ultimately, the Kind of Grande Complication’s ability to offer two great watches in one won me over. One side is classic high horology, while the other offers a taste of DB’s futuristic flavoring.”
14. Austen
Under $5,000: Beda’a Eclipse
“Such an incredible watch for the money. I love the design of this watch, and the unique way of displaying time (the seconds-hand animation is really cool). At 37 mm, it wears fantastic on the wrist.”
15. Chris
Under $5,000: Raymond Weil Millesime
“On the back of last year's GPHG ‘Challenge’ award, I was excited to see Raymond Weil—not a sentence I've written for a long time. The continued rollout of the Millesime collection didn't disappoint: No one is reinventing the wheel here, but slim, tidy everyday watches with above-average dials are going to work for me any day of the week. The green feeds my ongoing addiction to green-dial watches.”
16. Charity
Wild Card: Rolex 1908
“While Rolex isn't traditionally known for dress watches, this timepiece is a remarkable exception. The interplay of platinum, a rich brown leather strap, and a mesmerizing turquoise dial creates a stunning composition. The guilloche adds another layer of sophistication, solidifying it as a true knockout.”
ROUND 5
17. Charity
Wild Card: Hermès Cut
“This watch is visually interesting and offers a perfect blend of elegance and functionality with its minimalist design and beautiful aesthetics. The size is also accessible and easily makes it a versatile companion for everyday adventures. It transitions effortlessly from casual to dressy, complementing any look.”
18. Chris
Wild Card: Czapek Antarctique Green Meteor
“I’ve been a fan of the Antarctique since it first arrived, and have been waiting for the particular reference that would feel like ‘the one.’ I might have found it in the Green Meteor: I love the color, and the Namibian meteorite beneath it catches the light sensationally. I wanted something in my draft on a really elegant bracelet. And with the exception of the Raymond Weil, all my picks have movements I consider interesting and, at their price, well finished. Plus, I have always had a soft spot for the micro-rotor and coated, textured finish to Czapek’s calibers.”
19. Austen
Wild Card: Cartier Santos Dumont “Rewind”
“Love the poetic way of telling time by challenging conventional norms. Such a Cartier thing to do.”
20. Cam
Over $100,000*: Patek Philippe 5089G-129 “Morning on a Beach”
“The only scenario in which this watch would be picked last for anything. I only saved it for my final spot because there were so many watches in my blow-the-bag category I would have been happy with. It was really tough to not choose Hermès’s Arceau Duc Attelé, the minute repeater that uses tiny horses as gongs (!), A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph ‘Lumen,’ or TAG Heuer’s new Split Seconds. Ultimately, I couldn’t resist Patek’s high-high-high-end take on a surfer heading out into the waves.”
*Price upon request—which is pricey enough for me
THE FINAL TEAMS
Charity
Under $5,000: Nomos Tangente
Over $100,000: Piaget Swinging Sautoir
Off the Main Floor: Buci x Seconde/Seconde
Wild Card #1: Rolex 1908
Wild Card #2: Hermès Cut
Chris
Under $5,000: Raymond Weil Millesime
Over $100,000: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph
Off the Main Floor: Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
Wild Card #1: Grand Seiko “White Birch”
Wild Card #2: Czapek Antarctique Green Meteor
Austen
Under $5,000: Beda’a Eclipse
Off the Main Floor and Almost Over $100,000: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton**
Wild Card #1: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
Wild Card #2: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” in Yellow Gold
Wild Card #3: Cartier Santos Dumont “Rewind”
**Flag on me for poorly enforcing my own rules, but at $86,000 this certainly isn’t in the bargain bin.
Cam
Under $5,000: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Over $100,000: Patek Philippe’s Reference 5089G-129 “Morning on a Beach”
Off the Main Floor: De Bethune Kind of Grande Complication
Wild Card #1: Cartier Tortue Platinum Time-Only
Wild Card #2: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
Vote for who put together the best collection here.
Originally Appeared on GQ
