The 12 best coats to keep you cosy and chic this winter
Buying a coat is always a big deal – not least because of the outlay. But this year, when we could well be spending more time outside than normal, finding The Right One is more of a riddle than ever.
Bottom line, it should go without saying, is warmth. But it does go without saying because we’re only human and sometimes a coat is so seductive on the rail, so apparently bargainous (not a word, but should be), such an adorable shade of periwinkle (or whatever) that it finds itself coming home with us despite our better instincts.
If periwinkle, rose pink or tangerine is your dream coat, then rejoice, there are some lovely ones around. While a dark coat is always the pragmatic choice, it’s lovely to have a cheer-er upper in the wardrobe, particularly now, when you might need it for outside dining. Then there’s the option of a reversible coat, which, even if you only ever wear it one side out, can provide lots of options for contrasting if you roll up the cuffs or turn down the collars. Do ensure you like both colours though, because you’ll probably pay a bit more for this two-in-one.
Reversible wool coat, £740, Max Mara; Double face trench, £320, Jigsaw; White puffer, £250, Allbirds
How to know if it’s warm if you’re buying online? Price is a good guideline when it comes to cloth coats, although not down coats, more of which later. If a cloth coat looks thin, has a high acrylic count and a price tag that seems too good to be true, then it probably won’t be much of a friend when The Beast from the East or wherever, comes howling. My daughter came home with a £59 job a couple of years ago which was already bobbling as she took it out of the bag. It barely kept her warm in the house, let alone on the mean streets of north London.
I’m just going to put a word in for vintage at this point (and the charity shops) because you can find gems of incredible quality for stupidly low prices – far south of £59 – if you persist and keep your wits about you.
Eight years ago (I know this, because I recently got one of those On This Day notices pop up on my phone) I bought an old Harris tweed school blazer, with the name tag still resolutely attached. Eat your hearts out New (and Old) Celine. It was £20 and remains toasty and water repellent to this day. When techie boffins spout on about their latest mega wicking, breathable, polymer hybrid I always want to say, yes, but have you heard of tweed? It’s worn on grouse moors for a reason.
Shearling coat, £2, 295, Gushlow & Cole; Water repellent wool cape, £875, Joseph; Herringbone Belted Longline Coat, £99, Marks & Spencer
On the subject of natural fibres, I read on the &daughter website this week that wool has self-cleaning properties, like cats. How classy.
So yes, bottom line, warmth. And quality. This sounds as though you need to fling some money at the problem, and obviously that helps. But in addition to vintage there are numerous discount outlets popping up all around the place, and more or less permanent sales. Coats wise, this is a buyers’ market.
Next priority: style. It must look good, otherwise, frankly, what’s the point? It’s easy to get delusional by this stage, because having eliminated the scratchy, bulky, fibrous and nylony, you might be over the whole coat shopping thing. This is where the selfie option on your phone becomes genuinely useful. Better still, get the sales assistant to take a proper full length one. I used to love cocoon coats because they’re so cosy and Grace Kelly-ish, but when I finally saw a photo of myself in one I realised it was several miles from ish. I’m much better in something straighter, or belted. Even with loose coats, a half belt at the back can stop everything looking like a sack and just make the whole thing look more chic. One last word on belts – check the coat looks good undone too, because sometimes it may be too mild to wear it done up.
Blue wrap coat, £236, Whistles; Rust Wool-Blend Double-Breasted Coat With White Stitching, £970, Paul Smit; Hourglass Wool Blend Coat, £250, Arket
Trench styles are flattering on most shapes, but may not accommodate many layers underneath – a consideration if you plan to wear it with thick jumpers. Epaulettes, contrasting or gold buttons, cuff flaps can all add distinction, but if you’re petite the less fuss the better. Checks are lovely, and easier than stripes – the smaller they are, the easier they are to coordinate: a tiny puppytooth check is almost like a neutral. Talking of neutrals, cream and white are luscious, but probably not a day-in-day-out option as they will get grubby (wool may be “self-cleaning” but you’ll probably have to sponge-dab it with gentle specialist soap). Soak does a good eco-friendly all rounder, £15, thelittleknittingcompany.co.uk.
Practically everything I’ve said becomes irrelevant with down coats. There are many ultra cheap ones that are pretty darn warm. I used to love them. Some of my happiest hours were spent in the down department of Uniqlo. But then I learnt more about how some brands harvest their feathers and it’s horrific. I did once ask the CEO of Uniqlo about this and he was very dismissive. Mind you, he left shortly after, but they’re still not transparent. So if you care about this kind of thing, head to Arket for recycled down jackets, or to Allbirds, the sustainable, ethical trainer company that has just launched clothing. Their duvet coats are filled with Tencel, one of the most sustainable wood pulp derivatives, and recycled polyester. They also look great (note, I didn’t say flattering; every duvet coat will make you look like a bed. The clue’s in the name. That’s part of their charm). Or Stella McCartney, who fills hers with silk. There are prices for all pockets.
Mole grey coat, £225, COS' Green tweed coat, £595, Toast
Speaking of which, yes, I deem pockets a coat essential – and, call me cavalier, I use them. One doesn’t always want to be encumbered by a bag. Finally, longevity. You can future-proof your coat by checking off certain quality standards, but what about style? To be honest, most coat trends are fairly dateless – military, wrap, kimono, cape (wide sleeves are a bonus for thick jumper wearers), trench, etc, etc. Even weird, flappy things tend to hold their own in a weird, flappy context. So have fun. This will be your number one sartorial ally for what will seem like centuries to come. Might as well pick a stunner. Think of it as this year’s party outfit.
Lisa Armstrong's column appears each Saturday in The Saturday Telegraph and is published online every Saturday at 7am on Telegraph Fashion.
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