What We Wish We'd Had for Breakfast: Omelet with Morels
At breakfast time, many of us are caricatures of our best selves. We’ve got wet hair. We’re tearing to the subway or to our cars. Breakfast might be a quarter of a protein bar we found kicking around our handbags. Sad. Welcome to What We Wish We’d Had for Breakfast.
Courtesy of Little, Brown and Company. Photograph by Donna Turner Ruhlman
What We Had:
Not-crisp-enough, lukewarm, rushing-to-a-meeting toast.
What We Wish We’d Had:
Plucked straight from the pages of James Beard Award–winning writer Michael Ruhlman’s cookbook, “Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World’s Most Versatile Ingredient,” which will be published this April, this omelet is an envy-inducing dish, indeed. Ruhlman described it to us as “deeply mushroomy and creamy, but light—simple, shallot, reduced cream, salt, and pepper.” His inspiration was straightforward, too. “It’s a classic. Mushrooms go great with eggs generally, and because the morel is so special, the mild eggs feature and enhance them.”
This is one for the list of things-to-cook-when-spring-is-officially-here. Morels will soon be broadly available nationwide, and until they are, Ruhlman gets his from “pricey but good” Earthy Delights, in Michigan.
Omelet with Creamy Morel Mushrooms
From Egg, by Michael Ruhlman
2 tablespoons butter, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon minced shallot (or 6 ramps, prepared as described above)
16 fresh morels, halved, or ½ ounce/15 grams dried morels, reconstituted in water
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup/120 milliliters heavy cream
4 eggs, thoroughly blended (no trace of egg white visible)
1 teaspoon minced fresh chives (optional)
1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat and add the shallot (or whites of ramps) and a healthy pinch of salt (¼ teaspoon if you must measure). Cook the shallots in the butter till they’re tender. Add the morels and stir to heat and coat with butter. Grind some pepper over the mushrooms. Add the cream and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat and cook until the cream has thickened and coats the morels. (Cream will break if you overcook it, so don’t.) Remove the pan from the heat.
2. In a medium sauté pan, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add the eggs and cook the omelet as instructed in “How to Make a Perfect Omelet,” below. When the omelet is set, and there is a thin film of liquidy egg on top, scatter the hot mushrooms down the center of the omelet. Roll the omelet out of the pan and onto a warm plate. Slide a little butter over the top if you wish, garnish with chives if desired, and add more salt and pepper to taste. Cut the omelet in half crosswise and transfer one half to another warm plate. Serve immediately.
How to Make a Perfect Omelet
Again, I’d like to reiterate that everyone should first make a plain omelet—two eggs, a pat of butter, a pinch of salt—to appreciate what an omelet is. I often add cheese or mushrooms to make the omelet more interesting and fun to eat. But it’s important to first understand the foundation those garnishes are enhancing.