Throwback Thursday: The Black Russian
"Grandmas love hidden hooch," says Shoo-fly Diner beverage director Stephanie Griber. And as today is Throwback Thursday, we’re listening to Grandma.
What Griber’s referring to is the Black Russian at Shoo-fly, chef Spike Gjerde’s latest addition to his Baltimore empire (he’s also got Woodberry Kitchen and Artifact Coffee). Although the drink is typically made with Kahlua and vodka, Shoo-fly bartender Patrick Gartner devised his own coffee-based sweet liqueur, a little concoction he and Griber like to call “Pat’s Black Gold.” The Black Russian was Gartner’s grandmother’s go-to drink. (The “4 p.m. Manhattan” on the menu, should you be curious, was that of Griber’s grandmother.)
"Vodka became popular in this country after World War II," says Griber. "At the same time, in the early ’40s, people turned their noses up at spirits that tasted like spirits. They preferred something super fruity or chocolatey," which is where Kahlua came in. Fast forward to behind the bar at Shoo-fly today: "We feature bottomless cups of Counter Culture coffee that we batch brew," says Griber. "Once the coffee is 20 minutes old, though, we brew a new pot. The coffee that was 20 minutes old is not bad, though, so Patrick decided to step up and repurpose it."
So yes, while cocktail know-it-all David Wondrich may not favor “Disco Drinks” like White and Black Russians, today, we’re listening to Grandma.
Photo credit: Courtesy Shoo-fly Diner
Pat’s Black Gold
by Patrick Gartner
1/2 cup whole raw pecans, toasted
1 gallon coffee
1 quart brown sugar
5 cups dark rum (Shoo-fly uses Blackwell Rum)
1 cup brandy or cognac
Crush the toasted pecans into tiny pieces.
In a large pot, combine just-brewed coffee, sugar, and pecans. Cook over medium heat, stirring every 15 minutes, for about an hour or until the syrup reduces to about half of its original volume. (It should coat the back of a spoon.) Remove from heat and strain, discarding solids.
Store in an airtight container. Will keep for at least two months and is good in more than just a Black Russian: “Put a splash in a barbecue sauce or in a mole—it’s mind-blowing,” says Griber.
Black Russian
by Stephanie Griber
Serves 10-15 people, “depending on what kind of people”
1 12-oz. bar 80% cacao dark chocolate, broken up into chunks
Pat’s Black Gold (recipe above)
1 750 mL bottle vodka (Shoo-fly uses Green Mountain from Vermont)
Cream, optional (Shoo-fly uses Trickling Springs)
In a saucepan over medium heat, combine chocolate and 1 quart water. Bring to a boil, stirring, to melt chocolate. Remove from heat.
In a large container, combine chocolate mixture, Pat’s Black Gold and vodka. Stir “like hell,” then let refrigerate overnight.
To serve, ladle into a punch cup over one large ice cube along with a side of cream, should you want to turn the drink into a a White Russian.
