The Perfect Thanksgiving Wine

Yahoo Food
Updated

By David Lynch

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Hosting your first Thanksgiving? Fear not; I have just the wine for you: Italian Barbera. I didn’t choose it because it goes well with stuffing (although it does); I chose it because it goes well with everything.

What is it about Barbera, a work-horse grape and the “house wine” of the Piedmont region, that makes it my all-purpose red of choice? For starters, I can get a great bottle for around $30, which helps when buying multiples for a special feast. Barbera also plays well with a variety of dishes: Its fruit is generous, its acidity bracing, its tannins soft, and its alcohol moderate. It is a plush, cherry-red crowd-pleaser with enough “cut” to still feel like a wine, not a confection.

My preference is for lighter, rustic Barberas—a.k.a. poor man’s Pinot Noir. These days, this more traditional style is joined by denser versions that sub in nicely for Cabernet. Yes, you can have it all.

See more: 20 Last-Minute Thanksgiving Dishes to Save Your Holiday 

Mapping Barbera
The Italian red’s homeland is the Alba-Asti-Monferrato triangle in southeastern Piedmont, labeled Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti, or Barbera del Monferrato. Here’s a cheat sheet of the regional differences.

  • Barbera d’Alba: In Alba, Barbaresco and Barolo wines are king. But local producers also make tangy Barbera—and at a much better value. Try: Bartolo Mascarello 2010, $48

  • Barbera d’Asti: Asti is Barbera’s spiritual home, since other grapes don’t grow as well here. You’ll encounter more intense and oakier flavor. Try: Braida 2009 “Bricco dell’Uccellone,” $55

  • Barbera del Monferrato: Monferrato, thought to be the birthplace of Barbera, grows some of the softest, fruitiest styles of the grape. Try: Villa Sparina 2011, $21

When in Doubt…Buy Vietti

This legendary winemaker—known for its arty illustrated labels—produces a range of Barbera styles. You can’t go wrong, no matter which you choose.

See more: How to Roast a Thanksgiving Turkey

Drinking Barbera

Don’t Sweat the Vintage…
The vast majority of Barberas are pop-and-pour: Recent bottlings are fine (2010 was especially good in Piedmont), and Barbera’s general hardiness makes it a consistent year-to-year performer

…But do chill it
A cooler-than-average serving temp—50 degrees is good—will tame Barbera’s acidic personality.

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photo: Jean-François Chénier/Flickr