The Essential Roasting Tools
Photo: © StockFood / People Pictures
There are five tools that I consider mandatory for roasting.
SIDE TOWELS for taking hot pans out of the oven. Any heavy-duty towel will do, though I prefer sturdy, large (typically 1½ by 2 feet/45 by 60 centimeters) cloths that, when folded, give you good leverage on the handle of a hot pan—just make sure you keep them dry! A Web search will give you options; I’m partial to the ones I began using at the CIA, which offers them for sale online. I find potholders hopelessly clunky and inefficient, but if that’s what you’re used to, OK. (It’s an uphill battle of mine, to rid the world of potholders, but I try. Same with oven mitts; I won’t comment further in the spirit of if-you-can’t-say-something-nice, but they’re even worse than potholders for hindering your movement and control.)
A THERMOMETER to monitor the internal temperature of the meat. An inexpensive instant-read digital thermometer from the hardware store will work and is great for smaller cuts. Be sure to warm the probe before putting it into the meat; if it’s cold you might not get an accurate reading. Better still, I favor a cable thermometer, which allows you to monitor the internal temperature of a roast without opening the oven. I cherish my iGrill thermometer, which sends the temperature reading to my iPhone via Bluetooth. I do not recommend those old analog meat thermometers, though I grew up with one. Their readings are not exact, and they often come printed with outdated temperature recommendations.
A LARGE, FLAT-EDGED, WOODEN SPOON. This serves two purposes when I’m roasting (in addition to its myriad purposes on the stovetop). I use it to lift heavy roasted items—whether by sticking it into the cavity of a bird or using two to lift from below. And I use it to deglaze pans, scraping up skin and other delicious browned stuff that has stuck to the bottom. Whenever I travel to cook, these are among the first items I pack in my kit.
A SHARP KNIFE. I repeat: a sharp knife. I maintain that the number one problem in American home kitchens is dull knives. A dull knife makes your work harder and mutilates your beautifully roasted food. I urge you to purchase two good knives (a chef’s knife and a paring knife) and then find a good wet-grind knife-sharpening service near you. My favorite knife-sharpening device for the home is the DMT sharpening “stone,” which is actually a perforated, diamond-coated metal sheet that works wonders in between professional sharpenings. A gift certificate for professional knife sharpening is also a great gift to give the cook in your family. I’ve noted it before, but it bears repeating: nothing says “I love you” like a really sharp knife.
A BIG, HEAVY CUTTING BOARD for carving roasted meats (using your lightning-sharp knife) after they’ve rested. I couldn’t get by without a big board for everyday cooking and a second big board with a moat around it to catch the inevitable juices.
BEYOND THESE FIVE, I wouldn’t want to be without butcher’s string, but it’s certainly possible to roast without it. An oven thermometer to gauge the temperature of your oven can be useful if your oven seems to be misbehaving. Vessels of various shapes and sizes, basting spoons (I especially love my offset spoons), and of course any of the silly and/ or useful doodads and gizmos found at cookware stores worldwide—I leave their relative “necessity” to be determined by the preferences and budget of the one doing the roasting.
Excerpted from Ruhlman’s How to Roast: Foolproof Techniques and Recipes for the Home Cook by Michael Ruhlman (Little, Brown and Company, 2014).
Now, get to roasting!
The ultimate standing rib roast
