Scallopini: Update This Old-School Italian Recipe
Photo credit: Jeremy Fox/Instagram
The last time you came across scallopini—a classic Italian preparation of thinly sliced meat—it was likely breaded, deep-fried, pounded to a pulp, and doused with a ton of sauce.
And that’s just dandy, but such gut-busting fare will probably have you reaching for antacids. A lighter rendition by chef Jeremy Fox of Rustic Canyon Wine Bar in Santa Monica, California remedies the dilemma, but don’t worry; it’s just as appetizing.
"I think usually scallopini would be on more old-school Italian menus," Fox recently told us. "It probably isn’t held in very high regard with young chefs or more modern places.”
But Fox is willing to buck that trend. ”More and more, I’m less inclined to go with what I think of as unique and creative and modern… just for the sake of being modern. I want to make it taste good, and not really worry about fussy things and garnishes that don’t really make much of a difference when it comes to flavor.”
And Fox’s scallopini is chock-full of that: He swaps out the customary veal for few lean pieces of high-quality pork loin, which—in a nod to tradition—he pounds thin. “Pork can tend to be tough, so I think it’s a good method for having something that’s tender and flavorful and enjoyable,” Fox said. “It’s not this fibrous, soft piece of meat.”
He skips the flour, instead brushing the pork with a thin layer of olive oil, then pan-frying it. And instead of red sauce, Fox opts for a breezy Italian salsa verde of briny capers, pungent fennel (both bulb and fronds), flat-leaf parsley, shallots, garlic, and a bright burst of lemon zest.
"The whole point of this dish is to be light—that’s why I chose the salsa verde,” Fox stressed. “It definitely is a wink [at traditional preparations], just rebranded.”
The entrée, which began as an occasional special at Rustic Canyon, makes its way on to the restaurant’s regular menu this week. But no need to book a flight to California—Fox’s scallopini is easy to make at home.
Pork Scallopini with Fennel and Caper Salsa Verde
From chef Jeremy Fox of Rustic Canyon Wine Bar
Serves 4
2 Tbsp. diced fennel bulb
2 Tbsp. chopped fennel fronds
2 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbsp. chopped capers
2 Tbsp. minced shallots
1 clove garlic, finely grated
2 lemons, zested, lemons reserved
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 lbs. pork loin, center cut, trimmed of any silver skin or excessive fat
1 Tbsp. ground fennel seed
Kosher salt
Fresh-ground black pepper
In a bowl, combine the first 7 ingredients with all but 1 Tbsp. olive oil. Set aside. Trim the very top and bottoms from the zested lemons, then halve each and remove the seeds (tweezers, a toothpick, or a fork will do the trick). Set aside.
Slice the pork loin into 4 equal portions. Gently score both sides of each slice with the tip of a sharp knife, then lightly brush the meat with olive oil. Place each slice of pork, spaced well apart, on a counter or cutting board and cover the surface with plastic wrap.
Pound with a flat-surfaced mallet until 1/2 inch in thickness. Remove the plastic and season each portion on both sides with the fennel seed, salt, and pepper.
Heat remaining oil in a medium-hot cast iron pan. Add the pork and cook until brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board to rest for about 3 minutes. In the same pan, cook the reserved lemon halves until brown and caramelized, 2 to 3 minutes.
Place 1 portion of pork on each plate, spoon salsa verde on top, and serve with lemon slices.
