In Defense of the Iceberg Wedge Salad
Every week, we spotlight a different food blogger who’s shaking up the blogosphere with tempting recipes and knockout photography. Here, Tara O’Brady of Seven Spoons sings the praises of the unfairly-maligned iceberg wedge salad. Give it a chance. You’ll be glad you did.
All photos courtesy of Tara O’Brady
By Tara O’Brady of Seven Spoons
This is totally happening. Here we have that unapologetic specimen of salad, the iceberg wedge. Actually, it’s burly enough to warrant emphasis — The Iceberg Wedge. Yes, that’s better.
I was out with a friend I don’t see as often as I’d like, the sort of friend who orders you a French 75 in a bar that’s all dark wood and leather and brass, and whose taste you trust implicitly. Over the wandering path of our catching up, one of us mentioned iceberg lettuce; imagine my delighted suprise when he boldly declared his love for the stuff, a declaration I immediately cosigned. Besides maybe a backyard burger, we agreed that a wedge salad, dressed with bacon and blue cheese and more than a dash of hot sauce, is iceberg’s highest praise.
I’ve got real hopes some of you agree.
Iceberg salads are often maligned, the badum-bum-cha punch line to jokes about terrible cooking. And there’s surely fair reason for that, as sure as there’s redeeming qualities to The Iceberg Wedge. It isn’t refined, it isn’t one of those springy salads that gets us ready for summer days. It is watery refreshing, it’s old school gung-ho — it is crunch, and fat, and cool, and nose-clearing heat, all set right up to high on the sensory scale. It isn’t wimpy, wan or delicate. It’s a corker, a real wise guy. It’s memorable.
Related: 5 Reasons Your Salad Tastes Better at a Restaurant
As silly as it sounds, blue cheese dressing is an art more than a science. There are variables to consider and balance, ones that can’t be be pinned down to hard and fast rules: the pungency and the moisture of the cheese, the astringency of the particular lemon that’s juiced, the consistency of the sour cream. I’ve abandoned hope of giving exacting quantities, offering instead guidelines to steer you in the right direction.
If you don’t mind, I have a note on the hot sauce to choose. I have a weakness for cayenne-based sauces with blue cheese, specifically Frank’s Red Hot Sauce. It’s the hot sauce for Buffalo chicken wings, a dish that should always be served with celery and carrot sticks and blue cheese dressing. And no, I don’t dip my wings in the dressing. That’s just me. But the vinegary sting, that lip-prickling heat from the hot sauce after a bite of chicken is so, so great with celery dipped in dressing for a chaser. Here, the iceberg lettuce stands in for the celery and the bacon for the deep fried wings, but the same logic applies.
Related: A 4-Step Plan for More Satisfying Salads
And while we’re on the topic of hot sauce, my apologies, but I have some heart-held feelings when it comes to the iceberg wedge. I don’t mix the hot sauce into the dressing. I’m not entirely fond of the pinkish shade it dyes everything, but there’s also a taste preference; keeping it instead in drips and drabs across the salad perforates the dressing’s richness. Again, that’s just me.
Despite my peculiarities of opinion, there’s nothing difficult about an iceberg salad. Not much happens in the kitchen, but everything happens on the plate.
Another point scored for The Iceberg Wedge.
The Iceberg Wedge
Serves 4
Note: You can use the dressing right away, but I think it’s even nicer after a day in the fridge, which gives the flavors the chance to fully develop. If you choose to wait, you may need to stir in a few drops of water to thin the dressing before use; it thickens quite a lot as it sits. But oh, that thickened dressing is especially great on top of one of those backyard burgers. Leave it as is, straight from the fridge, and go to town.
If you can time things such that the bacon is still warm, with some of its fat still sizzling when it’s scattered on the salad, that’s the way to go. Green garlic can be used instead of, or in addition to, the chives.
For the blue cheese dressing (makes about 2 cups):
¾ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
¼ cup well-shaken buttermilk
4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled
1 tablespoon minced chives
Juice from half a lemon
Freshly ground black pepper
For the salad:
1 medium sized head of iceberg lettuce
1 recipe blue cheese dressing
5 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped then fried until crisp
Minced chives, freshly-cracked black pepper, and hot sauce to serve
Make the dressing: In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream and 3 tablespoons of the buttermilk. Gently fold in the blue cheese and chives along with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Season with freshly-ground black pepper. Take a taste. If more freshness is needed, stir in a bit more lemon juice. If it needs thinning, add some buttermilk. Keep tasting and tweaking until the dressing suits your taste. Set aside, or if making ahead, cover and refrigerate until use.
To make the salad, discard any saddish-looking outside leaves from the lettuce. Cutting through the core, halve the head lengthways. Then cut each half into half the same way, so you end up with quarters, each with bit of core attached. Place the wedges on individual plates or on a platter, family style. Pour some of the dressing over the wedges, then top with the bacon. Garnish with minced chives, a cracking of black pepper, and as much hot sauce as you dare, passing the remaining dressing alongside.
Best eaten immediately.
Related:
Lemony Beet Salad Recipe from ‘Short Stack’
5 Genius Uses for Caesar Dressing (Other Than Salad!)
Winter Salad with Citrus Dressing from the Vanilla Bean Blog
