Know Your Butter Better
Inspired by conversations on the Food52 Hotline, we’re sharing tips and tricks that make navigating all of our kitchens easier and more fun.
Today: Get to know your butter.
Previously shunned for its levels of saturated fat, butter is thankfully making a comeback (with a little help from a Bittman endorsement). Yes, you can often substitute various oils, but it’s often best to stick with good old, basic (or not-so-basic) butter.
Not all butter is created equal, though; characteristics like flavor and smoke point depend on a number of factors, including:
- Animal type and diet: Cow, sheep, and goat milk all produce differently-flavored butter, as do grain-fed and grass-fed animals.
- Handling: Pasteurization and culturing will also affect the final product.
- Moisture content: Butter is made up of milk solids (proteins), butterfat, and water; their ratio affects consistency and smoke point.
While there are a wide range of butters out there, they don’t vary in flavor as much as their close relative, cheese, does. But who knows — maybe we’ll start referring to the terroir of butter in the near future. In the meantime, here are a few good-to-know varieties to aid in your butter selection process.
The industrial era brought the butter we’re used to seeing on supermarket shelves, which contains 80 to 81% butterfat (this percentage varies between brands). Producers also began pasteurizing milk during this time, which resulted in butter made from sweet cream — this is why unsalted butter is often called “sweet cream” butter. Baking lore holds unsalted butter in the highest esteem, as it allows for better control over the salt content of your finished product.
Best uses: Anything and everything, especially baked goods.