Do You Have What it Takes to Run a World-Famous Restaurant? This Guy Does.
Michael Minnillo stands in front of the famous blue door of The French Laundry. (Photo: TKRG)
Dressed in Topsiders, jeans, and a blue jacket, Michael Minnillo’s exterior masks the intensity of his job. As The French Laundry’s general manager, Minnillo has what could arguably be called one of the most stressful jobs in the restaurant world. His calm demeanor may be attributed to the fact that, as he said, he has only worked for two people in his life: his father and Chef Thomas Keller. Or perhaps it’s merely part of the job. Overseeing more than 100 employees in the dining room and kitchen as well as the 90 guests who dine every night at one of the world’s top restaurants does require a cool head.
Minnillo’s journey from Cleveland, Ohio, to Yountville, Calif., started in his father’s restaurant. After studying political science and considering law school, Minnillo decided to stay at the family business and he worked his way up to sous chef. In 1998 he was considering culinary school to further his career when his father, a friend of Keller, suggested he call the chef. It was a move that would shape the rest of his career.
Minnillo moved to Yountville, where The French Laundry is located, and started as a commis, eventually moving up to chef de partie, or station chef. Walking into the kitchen on his first day back then wasn’t as daunting as you would imagine. “There was no Internet back then, so you didn’t realize the magnitude of where you were,” he said.
Chef Thomas Keller works with a young Minnillo in The French Laundry kitchen. (Photo: TKRG)
Next, Minnillo made yet another life-changing decision: He traded his chef’s coat for a suit, an unusual move in the restaurant world. “Chef Keller wanted me to pursue the [chef] track and become a sous chef and I remember telling him, ‘I feel like I have to leave but I don’t want to leave,’” Minnillo said. “And we started talking about the dining room and then it just happened.” He began as an expediter, responsible for making sure food is ready and delivered to the table, and then was promoted to captain, or headwaiter. The otherwise confident Minnillo said he met his match in the dining room. “I had never worked in a dining room before,” he said. “So I was learning all the movements and how not to be nervous. Laura [Cunningham, former director of operations and now director of branding for TKRG, Keller’s restaurant group] is such a great mentor and made it so much easier. It’s a very supportive environment.”
TV screens in the kitchens of The French Laundry and Per Se allow the teams to easily communicate with each other. (Photo: TKRG)
The dining room was clearly the right spot for Minnillo. In 2004, he packed his bags for New York as part of the team that opened Per Se, what some call Chef Keller’s East Coast version of The French Laundry. Minnillo worked as a captain at Per Se until 2012, when he put his hat in the ring for the general manager’s position back at The French Laundry. He got the job.
In today’s culinary world it’s rare for someone to remain with one chef or restaurant group for most of the career, but Minnillo wouldn’t have it any other way — he wants to stay with a winning team. “[It’s] the same reason Derek Jeter never left the Yankees. When you have the ability to win the championship year after year, why would you leave? That’s how I feel about Per Se and The French Laundry,” Minnillo said.
The most difficult element of Minnillo’s job is satisfying the guests. “Having 90 people coming every night, most of them for the first time, with high expectations and then exceeding those expectations and waking up and doing it again every day” is at the heart of the job, he said.
The French Laundry presents its own set of challenges for a general manager. Because there is no music in the dining room, Minnillo says, “it’s important for staff to create energy and keep it going.” Also, this is a restaurant people plan their vacations around. This isn’t just a 9-course meal — it’s an experience, and it is the job of Minnillo and his team to ensure the experience is flawless.
A typical day for Minnillo begins in his office, answering emails and attending meetings. In the afternoon, he checks in with Chef de Cuisine David Breeden and the staff, and looks at the reservations. Then Minnillo dons a custom-made blue or grey suit, his uniform for the evening, before attending a daily dinner for the staff called “family meal.” Then he has a pre-shift meeting with Chef Breeden along with the culinary and dining teams before the doors open at 5:30 p.m. sharp. Dinner service ends at 9:15 p.m. but Minnillo’s day doesn’t end until around 1 a.m. Weekends are even more intense, as lunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays.
Minnillo in the kitchen of Per Se. (Photo: TKRG)
There is some down time built in for both the staff and the restaurant. The restaurant traditionally closes three times a year: Christmas Eve and Christmas Day; 20 days in January; and 10 days in July, and the entire staff is off during that time. Not only does the team need a rest, but so does the space. “The restaurant needs a break,” Minnillo said. “Everyone forgets about the space.” Fresh paint, carpet, chairs and other physical changes and touch-ups are all done during that period.
Off duty, Minnillo is casual; you’ll find him dining at Ciccio and Ad Hoc in Yountville. At home, his approach to hosting guests is simple. Minnillo serves “great food and great wine, family style.” He will fire up the grill when company is coming. “I put as much meat on as possible, always rib eyes and chicken, along with some vegetables.” And Minnillo always puts out a few cheeses for guests to snack on. His favorite dish to make at home is cacio e pepe, a traditional Roman pasta dish of spaghetti, black pepper, butter, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Minnillo’s hospitality background comes home with him: The goal is to make people feel comfortable. “People are very nervous in the restaurant; they don’t know what to expect and so we try to go above and beyond,” he said. This is also true when entertaining at home. “Especially when people don’t know each other, you want to make people feel at ease,” Minnillo said.
His final advice for successful hosting? “Champagne is always nice.”
Want to know more about Thomas Keller’s world?
The story behind one of America’s most coveted butters
How one diner’s tear sparked a gluten-free miracle product
Break out the blow torch: Thomas Keller’s prime rib roast recipe
