Chocolate 101: A Handy Guide for Valentine's Day
All chocolate begins as cacao beans, which are seeds found in large pods that grow on cacao trees in regions around the equator. These beans are fermented, dried, and roasted and then the inner meat (or nib) of the bean is removed from the shell and ground into a paste. This paste is called chocolate liquor and consists of cocoa solids and cocoa butter. It is then further processed and mixed with sugar and flavorings to make the various types of chocolate.
Using the right type of chocolate in baking can make a big difference in something as simple as cookies or as complex as a triple-chocolate mousse cake. We explain the varieties of chocolate most often called for in recipes, and our favorite brands in the test kitchen.
MILK CHOCOLATE
Milk chocolate must contain at least 12 percent milk solids, according to standards set by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). It’s usually sweeter than dark chocolate, too, although manufacturers today are making deeper, darker milk chocolates. Dove Silky Smooth Milk Chocolate is our favorite brand.
BITTERSWEET/SEMISWEET (DARK) CHOCOLATE
In order for a chocolate to be called “bittersweet” or “semisweet,” the FDA mandates that it contain at least 35 percent cacao, and manufacturers may use either term for chocolate that meets that minimum. That said, most manufacturers use “bittersweet” for chocolates that are higher in cacao (and hence less sweet) than their “semisweet” offering. Thus, “bittersweet” and “semisweet” can be useful terms for comparing products within one brand but are imprecise across different brands. For example, Ghirardelli’s bittersweet baking bar (the test kitchen’s favorite brand of dark chocolate) contains more cacao than its semisweet bar, but it has less cacao than semisweet bars by Guittard and Scharffen Berger.
UNSWEETENED CHOCOLATE
The aptly named James Baker started manufacturing unsweetened chocolate in Massachusetts in 1765; his Baker’s Unsweetened Chocolate is still sold today. Hershey’s followed about a century later, and it’s our favorite for its “intense” chocolate flavor and “caramel” and “cinnamon” nuances. For every ounce of unsweetened chocolate called for in a recipe, you can substitute 1½ ounces of bittersweet or semisweet chocolate and subtract 1 tablespoon of sugar.
CHOCOLATE CHIPS
You might think chips are simply miniaturized versions of bar chocolate, but that isn’t the case. Chocolate chips have less cocoa butter (i.e., fat) than bar chocolate, to ensure that they maintain their shape when baked. In our tests, we’ve found that in chocolate pudding, ice cream sauce, and icing, chocolate chips produce a slightly grainy, overly thick, and viscous texture, while the bar versions were light and silky. However, the crumb of baked goods such as cupcakes seems to mask any textural difference between the two versions. So the next time you’re left with only morsels in your pantry, don’t hesitate to whip up baked goods, but head to the store if your sights are set on something smooth and creamy.
NATURAL COCOA POWDER
Cocoa powder, made from partially defatted, ground, and dried cocoa solids, is our go-to ingredient when we want chocolate flavor without added sugar or fat (or when we make hot chocolate). We like Hershey’s Natural Cocoa, because its “intense,” “complex,” “bright,” and affordable. For many chocolate dessert recipes, we “bloom” cocoa powder in hot water, which makes the chocolate taste fuller and richer.
DUTCH-PROCESSED COCOA POWDER
Dutching, a process invented in the 19th century (by a Dutchman), neutralizes naturally acidic cocoa powder. Despite that, we’ve found that Dutch-processed cocoa is usually interchangeable with natural cocoa. The exception is when you want the reddish tinge that comes from the reaction of baking soda and natural cocoa powder—for instance, when baking devil’s food or red velvet cakes.
WHITE CHOCOLATE
Is white chocolate really chocolate? Technically, white chocolate isn’t chocolate because it contains no cocoa solids. To meet government standards of “white chocolate,” this product must contain at least 20 percent cocoa butter (the fat from the bean), which is usually deodorized to remove any naturally occurring flavors that might overwhelm white chocolate’s mild flavors of milk, sugar, and vanilla. Many brands, including our winner, Guittard Choc-au-Lait White Chips, replace cocoa butter with hydrogenated oils and we find no difference in quality.
MORE LINKS FOR CHOCOLATE LOVERS:
Browse the Newest Chocolate Recipes, like Hot Cocoa Cake, on CooksCountry.com
On our Online Cooking School, Learn the Secrets to Ultimate Chocolate Desserts
