The Top 6 Shows and Runway Trends at Milan Fashion Week FW23
Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023 delivered next-gen heritage and satorial presentations that disrupted the traditional runway. Once again, SUNNEI didn't disappoint with the theatrics as they changed the runway format into a stage for crowdsurfing. Diesel presented a mountain of 200,000 Durex condom boxes at the center of its presentation and invited White Lotus' Haley Lu Richardson to her first runway show. Elsewhere, Fendi played with juxtaposition between light and dark and masculine and feminine. Key trends for this season indicate functional head coverings, modular boots and evening wear gloves as key staples for FW23 attire.
With MFW wrapped, Hypebae unpacks our favorite runway shows and key trends to track for the FW23 season. For more fashion week news, checkout our top trends from London Fashion Week.
Diesel
The category is, sex-positivity. Glenn Martens' Diesel FW23 firmly cemented the brand as one for the future of streetwear — fluid, sultry, powerful and joyous. We caught up with Martens backstage and asked him about what the collection means to him: "It will always be about people not giving a shit , but now it's about people not giving a shit, having fun with respect for each other and safety." While the mountain of 200,000 condom boxes didn't go unnoticed it was the brand's new graphic print painted with bright smiles that stole the show — making everyone in attendance smile alongside it. In true Diesel runway spirit, the brand returned with its holographically adorned models slinky down the runway with shiny and colourful skin. We can't wait to see what's next for Diesel, it is always a show to remember.
Fendi
Fendi once again offered a masterclass in artistry for its FW23 showcase. When we asked the brand's renowned Creative Director Kim Jones, what one word he would use to describe the collection - without a pause he said "Lightness." Set in a pitch black room, the models arose through a beam of light which set the tone for binary play from the garments to the set design. This juxtaposition expertly wove itself into the collection, masculine and feminine, light and dark. Elsewhere the multi-functionality of the garments — multipurpose knitwear and deconstructed outwear — spoke to trends we've seen in modularity, DIY and hyper-personalization within styling.
Prada
Before arriving at Prada FW23, we received a book titled Recycling Beauty. The show invite foreshadowed a collection which aimed to rediscover notions of beauty throughout garments. Upon arrival, metal beams slowly crept out of the ceiling wrapped with lilacs — offering an aura of grace, care and revelation. Walked by the likes of Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, the intention of beauty was tailored into the garments from outerwear to occasion wear. Lace is a texture we've seen everywhere this season and Prada's take was a wedding dress that was styled as everyday attire. Look to Prada's volumous jackets, warm leather and next-gen suede as key outwear staples this FW23 season.
GCDS
Giuliano Calza delivered his most intimate collection yet inspired by his friends, family and beloved cat. The collection's origins were rooted in a feeling of relaxation and a sense of being at home. This intention was laced into the garments themselves with velvets which could be found in sofas and bath-mat like tufty textures. Known for his character collaboration such as SpongeBob SquarePants in SS23, Calza's FW23 offered an elevated sophistication not yet seen from the brand excluding prints and bold colors. And of course, no one can report on GCDS this season without mention of the gigantic Kittho the Cat sculpture center stage. We are entering a new age of GCDS and we can't wait to be along for the ride.
SUNNEI
From its models sprinting down a runway block in SS23, to the magic making moment of twin models at SS23, SUNNEI went crowd surfing for FW23 — and we are falling for it! In the show invite, SUNNEI asked us to: "Leave [our] expectations outside the building, forget perfectly perfect perfection and welcome reality." Upon entering the showcase, their intention was unveiled as a jam-packed crowd witnessed the first model fall from the runway into the arms of show-goers. The concept came from the way the team carries and supports each other as each model was a member of staff at the brand. As for the collection? Fluffy crop tops, 1000chiodi shoes and a bulky denim set created an explosion of colors in unison.
Jil Sander
Set to the beat of Bjork's "All Neon Like," Jil Sander FW23 expertly merged futuristic sillouhettes with progressive formalwear. Luke and Lucie Meier celebrated their sleepwear by dressing the guest's chairs with pillowed fabrics as down-filled coats graced the runway. Motocross was a clear inspiration this season with tight, functional head coverings, denim motorcycle jackets and vibrant gloves. While Jil Sander's SS23 showcase was infused with natural elements, this season was all about city life with asymmetrical suiting and contouring. Look to the brand's thoughtful layering, chunky boots and billowing bags as key trends for FW23 dressing.
