Paris Fashion Week: The Contemporary Market
From full-fledged fashion shows to cozy breakfasts, brands pulled influences from disparate eras as they presented their collections during Paris Fashion Week.
Aigle
For its debut on the official calendar, Aigle hosted a splashy show at the top of the Centre Pompidou on the final day of fashion week. It was a grandiose setting for the French outerwear brand as models paraded around the rooftop fountain to show off the oversize raincoats, puddle boots and padded jackets that are brand staples.
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It was also the second collection from the trio behind the brand Études Studio, which shows on the official calendar during Paris Men’s Week. Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Égry and José Lamali joined the label in 2020 to add a new energy to the 170-year-old Aigle. The unusual approach is the rerelease of iconic models, ever-so-slightly updated for the modern urbanite with cargo shorts, classic blue work jackets and padded vests.
Outside of the muted color palette, one bright spot was a red, yellow and blue plaid ensemble, complete with a pleated skirt, vest, rain jacket and baseball cap in the colorway that recalled the colors from their most recent men’s collection, proving they are putting their own stamp on the brand’s DNA. The collection elevated utilitarian with prints, but remained rooted in the brand’s classics.
Claudie Pierlot
The classic French brand reinvigorated its identity this season by updating the Parisian codes of trenchcoats, striped sweaters and dark denim. The maison, edging up on its 40th birthday, mined its archives for inspiration this season. Cue eyelet collars to be worn over sweater vests, wide-lapel blazers and well-cut trousers.
The presentation was held at a traditional brasserie with the rack hanging among the marble bar and leather banquettes, showcasing the photography of Christelle Yamabayisa, who captures the essence of yesterday’s Paris on today’s streets, as part of their support of young artists.
The collection predominantly stuck to the Parisian palette of navy, beige, black and white. There was a pop of pink in a skirt suit among the sedate city shades, sunflower yellow on striped shirts and delicate embroidery on denim. Pierlot was also promoting its Anouk bag in new colors. Designed by a Paris-based studio team, the brand quietly introduced a new logo last season and doubled down on the intertwined CP, now on denim jackets, accessories and as panels in pleated trenchcoats as it seeks to cement a recognizable identity among a sea of contemporary competition. They offered easy separates as it continues to evolve.
Maison Kitsuné
The Franco Japanese brand was inspired by Los Angeles, California, this year, traveling to the West Coast via a collaboration with Olympia Le-Tan for a third season. The designer mined the halls and walls of The Beverly Hills Hotel, with a capsule strongly inspired by its famous banana leaf-print paper, striped cabanas and pink-and-green color combination which debuted in 1949. Here the prints were interpreted on boxy button downs, seersucker shirtdresses and miniskirts. She also reinterpreted the hotel’s famous draped logo into a Maison Kitsune mark, fronting cable knit sweaters, totes and espadrilles. The generous use of the print hinted there might be other projects in the works as the brand continues to expands its lifestyle universe. The Le-Tan collection will roll out in high summer, just in time for pool parties.
Another collaboration for the brand this season was with Japanese outdoor label And Wander. Design duo Keita Ikeuchi and Mihoko Mori brought their aesthetic from their time at Issey Miyake to performance gear, and here they adapted to every day shirts in specialized materials with hidden pockets for the active urbanite, in shades of light yellow and grays. That collection will drop in January.
Elsewhere, its studio-designed main collection kept its collegiate undercurrent, and tweaked its logo in collaboration with Rop van Mierlo. The Dutch artist is known for his wet-on-wet technique of painting animals, and he reinterpreted the fox as an abstract on T-shirts. With the various capsules rolling out every two months over the season, Maison Kitsuné offered a little something for everyone.
Maje
Designer Judith Milgrom was in party mode for spring, inspired by Miami, Florida, and the explosion of color on barely there clothes. Crochet, fringe, florals — she tapped into every trend this season, including sheer with a mesh dress dotted with delicate rhinestones. The Y2K vibe that ran strong through several collections was present here, looking at cargo pants, cutouts and bucket hats. Side slit skirts have ruching, for an added flirty detail.
A few more conservative pieces rounded out the collection, including long jackets and tweed suits, though even these were in mini versions. Boho lace dresses in white and sunset shading were for the more demure client. Overall it was a grab bag for the trendy and Milgrom keeps the voice distinct for the sexy younger sister of the SMCP brands.
3.Paradis
“Women deserve even more to go to paradise,” said creative director Emeric Tchatchoua at the spring presentation of his 3.Paradis label, where fully feminine looks have now been added to his streetwise unisex mix.
It’s a bit early to discuss getting to the Pearly Gates, but there were plenty of reasons to head to an earthly retail rack in this lineup of lace dresses, crochet gowns, really short shorts and cropped tops in a variety of shapes, all with a bird motif. They tapped into the season’s undressed dresses.
One striking standout was a blouson entirely covered in cutout birds that ended up looking like a teddy bear jacket. And female consumers may want to pluck any of those tailored suits from the men’s side.
Sandro
Sandro, the older sister to Maje, was also in party spirit, albeit showing a little less skin. Still, it picked up on the same colorful crochet trend and Y2K influences, here in a pink butterfly top paired with cargo pants or in coordinated skirt and crop top versions. The island beat continued with Hawaiian print shorts and low-slung, silky printed trousers.
Artistic directors Evelyne and Ilan Chetrite were eclectic with their print mix, topping floral pants with leopard print tops. Silver trousers added shine, while classic tan suits and moto jackets added an entry point for the less daring.
The coed collection offered up more tailoring in their men’s collection, with slim-cut suits in light blue and cream, and tailored trousers in chocolate topped with copper trenchcoats, while muslin was interpreted in Cuban-collared shirts. Double denim was also at play, notable in an acid-washed lavender that was not for the fainthearted.
The brand also debuted its new flagship on the Champs-Élysées, a temple to minimalism designed by Balmain, Chloé and Isabel Marant interior architect Franck Durand. It’s a blank slate setting for its boisterous collection this season.
