INTERVIEW: Global Makeup Artist Nick Lujan on Makeup Direction for MARRISA WILSON SS23 and Spring 2023 Makeup Trends
New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 was about innovation and collaboration. One of the hottest collabs of the season was the marriage of fashion With MARRISA WILSON and experimental makeup with the iconic heritage brand, Kevyn Aucoin Beauty under the direction of Global Director of Artistry and Education, Nick Lujan.
"This season started with a lingering thought—that you can't really know where you're going until you know where you've been. As a first-generation Guyanese-American, I realized that to understand where I am today— as a human, a daughter, a designer, an artist—and what my future may hold required a deeper exploration of not just my own past but also my heritage and the generations that came before me," Wilson exclaimed when asked about the direction of her SS23 show. "In the MARRISA WILSON Spring 2023 Runway Collection, I found inspiration in the colors and culture of Guyana, a country known as a bird-watching paradise. Nick Lujan and the Kevyn Aucoin team beautifully captured that vibrancy in their beauty statement, with makeup looks that transformed the models into exotic birds with faces that resembled brightly-colored feathers."
Lujan did a beautiful job of capturing the essence of the MARRISA WILSON brand as the melanin-filled models served the runway with bright, smokey eyes and fresh, dewy skin. "For MARRISA WILSON's Spring/Summer 2023 collection, we were inspired by Guyana's colors, culture, people and energy. Pops and flashes of orange and green are seen in the colors and the market environment that is represented in the inner corner of the eye. A touch of glitter under the lash represents the ocean and ocean life, bringing the story of the collection to life. The key feature for this look, and all of the looks this fashion week, is glowing, fresh skin. It's always in, but especially going into the early part of 2023." says Nick Lujan.
Post-show, we were able to interview makeup artist Nick Lujan on Lujan's inspiration for the show, beauty trends for next spring and we even secured a few beauty tips. Keep reading on for more.
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For the MARRISA WILSON show, what was your source of inspiration for the beauty looks this season? Are you hoping to set the tone for any spring trends for beauty enthusiasts to follow next spring?
This show was super special because the makeup was tied into the designs of Marrisa and her close connection to the color and vibrancy of Guyanese culture. We pulled inspiration from the Guyanese Flag, the colors of the foliage and the diverse bird wildlife. There is something for everyone in this look, whether you try on the "Glazed Temple" highlight, the matte smokey eye, the pop of bold inner eye color or the conservative dot of glitter. While many of the shows showcased the "no makeup, makeup" or super graphic looks, we wanted it to be fun and playful with pops of texture and a hint of color.
As we're back to experimenting with makeup, what Kevyn Aucoin products were you most excited to use on models this year?
This year, Glass Glow Face & Body Gloss was the true eye-catching product on the runway. As each model hit their mark and did their pivot on the end of the runway, we were all in awe of the reflective flash of glaze on the temples.The other products I was so excited to use on the models were the Stripped Nude Skin Tint and the new Contour Eyeshadow Palettes.
Stripped Nude Skin Tint was the only foundation we used on the models. It looks like well-hydrated skin and the best part, it feels like you are wearing next to nothing. Of course, we only added coverage with the ever-famous Sensual Skin Enhancer where needed. Each model needed to have their natural beauty shine through the makeup. We applied a subtle blush from within look by using a cream blush underneath our Skin Tint application. The Contour Eyeshadow Palettes were also essential to the look. We used the three matte shades from the Deep palette to sculpt and define the eye area. Then added a pop of shimmer, from the palette, just under the brow arch.
What is one Kevyn Aucoin beauty product you feel every model or makeup artist should have in their travel caboodles?
This is such a tough question. I would say each model or MUA needs a few essential products from the brand:
The Award-Winning Eyelash Curler is in almost every pro kit backstage.
The Volume Mascara is the perfect mascara for detailing and styling lashes.
The Contour Book 3.0 has all the shades for sculpting the face.
Stripped Nude Skin Tint is that perfect editorial barely-there foundation.
Sensual Skin Enhancer in a few shades for added coverage.
Loose Setting Powder to spot set and control shine in oily areas "hot spots."
This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.
