This Hidden Hotel Is Home to Japan's Most Scenic River Hot Springs

A favorite among locals, this riverside hotel deep in the mountains has incredible natural hot spring pools.

What we all want from vacation is to be transported out of our day-to-day life and into a world that is simpler and perhaps more exciting. Somehow Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku does this effortlessly; welcoming guests into an enchanting hotel in Japan's Gunma prefecture.

Leave your shoes at the front desk and your suitcase unopened. Here, you’ll live in the comfort of your provided yukata — a kimono-like robe — and slippers, shuffling through the property’s temple-style buildings, some of which date back to 1923.

Takaragawa Onsen is built alongside Takaraga River, high in the mountains of Japan. Beautiful bridges criss-cross the river, leading yukata-clad guests to the property's main draw: stunning riverside hot springs (or outdoor onsens) nestled among moss-covered rocks.

The four open-air pools — three mixed gender and one for women only — are fed from four hot spring wells of various temperatures that are blended to secure the perfect temperature. Whether you find yourself there as the snow falls, as cherry blossoms drift from the trees, or while the leaves make their autumnal shift to vibrant oranges and reds, there is nothing quite like watching the river flow past from your cozy, watery perch.

It’s no wonder the mineral-rich waters are said to relieve stress and treat illness, including joint and muscle pain, digestive problems, and motor dysfunction. Ruins from the Jomon Era (145 -1 0 B.C.E.) suggest that people used the waters for therapeutic purposes and during the Taisho Era (1912-1926), visitors traveled to soak in the therapeutic waters.

Today, visitors from all over the world and across Japan come to soak in Takaragawa Onsen’s waters while enjoying the practically untouched natural landscape. There are plenty of off-site activities to occupy your time, including snowshoeing, skiing, river rafting, and canyoning — but in reality, there’s no need to leave the property. The traditional, tatami mat-floored rooms are stunning — some with views overlooking the river — and an extensive, buffet-style breakfast is available every morning. In the evening, guests are served multi-course Japanese-style cuisine in private alcoves. The presentation is as top notch as the food, and if you let them know in advance, they’re happy to work around dietary restrictions.

And perhaps the best part: Guests have 24/7 access to the springs, which never seem to be crowded. There’s nothing quite like an early morning soak or a flashlight-aided night excursion to your very own hidden hot spring oasis.

How to get there

From Tokyo, take the Jōetsu Shinkansen direct to Jomokogen Station (just over an hour of travel time). Upon arrival, take Takaragawa Onsen’s free shuttle with departures at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. daily, with advance reservations.

When to go

Soaking as the snow falls or in the midst of a lush, summer day is hard to beat, but Takaragawa assistant manager Hiroshi Okamoto, says nature puts on a particularly special show in the spring and fall months. In spring, mountain flowers and cherry blossoms pop and the autumnal months, the surrounding tree-covered mountains turn vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red.

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