First look: Evergreen Grill brings creative fare and neighborhood vibes to Midtown

Creative fare and neighborhood vibes are what you can expect at Midtown's newest gathering spot.

Evergreen Grill opened March 1 at 212 N. Evergreen St. in the space that was formerly Café Society.

The concept was created by chef David Todd, who is known for the elevated bar fare he has served at Longshot (the restaurant and bar in the basement of the Arrive Memphis hotel) for the past several years.

Todd, who is a Midtowner himself, said he wants his new bar and grill to be the neighborhood joint in Midtown that everyone goes to.

Owner and chef David Todd poses for a portrait in his new restaurant, Evergreen Grill, at 212 N. Evergreen St. in Memphis on Thursday, Feb. 29, 2024. The restaurant is located is the space that was formerly Café Society.
Owner and chef David Todd poses for a portrait in his new restaurant, Evergreen Grill, at 212 N. Evergreen St. in Memphis on Thursday, Feb. 29, 2024. The restaurant is located is the space that was formerly Café Society.

“I really just want to be a Memphis chef, and it is so exciting to be opening my own restaurant here,” Todd said. “Restaurants are about people, and we are here to be part of the community.”

Todd has partnered The Green Beetle owner Josh Huckaby and general manager Meredith Brocato to create the concept Todd describes as “a well-intentioned neighborhood bar and grill.”

They have transformed the former white-table cloth dining room into a casual and inviting neighborhood restaurant that will offer creative and elevated comfort food and bar fare.

What’s on the menu at Evergreen Grill?

Menu offerings are inspired by the creative bar fare Todd served during his time at Longshot and the less-fine dining dishes on his menu at much-missed Interim.

Todd said the dishes are approachable and casual.

“Intentional comfort food” is how he describes the offerings, explaining that he takes flavors he has seen and tasted, and reconfigures familiar dishes with these international flavors.

Crispy Curry Cauliflower is sure to be a popular shareable appetizer. Flash-fried cauliflower is tossed in a coconut milk Thai curry and garnished with cashews and fresh cilantro.

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For entrees, expect dishes like Todd’s Moroccan Short Rib. A braised short rib in a Moroccan barbecue sauce is served over crushed Yukon gold potatoes and garnished with a fresh herb salad and dry roasted peanuts.

Todd’s popular “KFC” Korean Fried Chicken Sandwich is also on the menu. A crispy piece of chicken is tossed in a gochujang sauce and topped with cheese corn and house-made pickles for this original spin on a fried chicken sandwich.

The bar offerings will include classic cocktails, wines by the glass and a nice selection of beers. “We plan to offer the menu the neighborhood wants,” Todd said.

A neighborhood gathering spot

A look inside the dining room at new Midtown restaurant Evergreen Grill at 212 N. Evergreen St. in Memphis on Thursday, Feb. 29, 2024. The restaurant is located in the space that was formerly Café Society.
A look inside the dining room at new Midtown restaurant Evergreen Grill at 212 N. Evergreen St. in Memphis on Thursday, Feb. 29, 2024. The restaurant is located in the space that was formerly Café Society.

The restaurant space has been updated, with new floors and fresh paint and a wall was removed to open up the bar to the dining room.

Each of the small dining rooms is inviting and decorated with vintage photographs of Midtown Memphis and kitschy signs. Vintage green and white checkered vinyl tablecloths complete the laid-back neighborhood bar vibe.

“We aren’t a sports bar per se, but we do have a TV in every room,” said Todd, adding they tried to give homage to the building by keeping original architectural features.

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The outdoor patio that was popular at Café Society will be spruced up for warmer weather, and a game room is in the works.

Evergreen Grill will open with just dinner service, but expect lunch to come in the near future.

Oh, and don’t head to Café Society’s front door. The new entrance to Evergreen Grill is through the bar.

Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer. 

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Evergreen Grill

Where: 212 N. Evergreen St.

Hours: 4-10 p.m. (kitchen closes at 9 p.m.) Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday; 4-11 p.m. (kitchen closes at 10 p.m.) Friday-Saturday; closed Monday

Online: evergreengrillmemphis.com

This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: Evergreen Grill opens in Memphis: What to expect at Midtown restaurant