EXCLUSIVE: Jean Paul Gaultier Turns Its '90s Archives Into Future Cyberwear
Jean Paul Gaultier presents "Cyber," an electric ready-to-wear collection that reinvents the house's iconic archives from the '90s. Shot by photographer and art director TORSO, the striking campaign introduces 11 faces and personalities selected from an open casting call.
Inspired by the quintessential fashion shows "Les Amazones," Fall/Winter 1995-96, and "Cyberbaba," Spring/Summer 1996, "Cyber" delivers a unique ready-to-wear capsule collection that fuses day-to-day staples with dramatic influences. The classic dot print, inspired by the pop artwork of Hungarian Victor Vasarely, is reworked in new neon colors and spread over a medley of second-skin pieces, such as full catsuits and micro bikinis.
Coming straight from '90s Jean Paul Gaultier, the classic military silhouette sees mottled dry wool pants, bombers and suit jackets that contrast with looser and more relaxed maxi parkas and pants. On the knitwear and jerseys side of the line-up, the indispensable "Cyberbaba" cut-outs are now surgically laser cut for the collection, comprising skirts, dresses and a lace-like fishnet full-body suit.
Elsewhere, the "Cyber" colored jewelry is the result of the first-ever partnership between Jean Paul Gaultier and Adriana Manson, founder of the cult-loved Spanish label La Manso. The Barcelona-based artist reworked her iconic globular "dot" ring for the campaign. The "Cyber" collection arrives on November 4 at Jean Paul Gaultier's web store and select boutiques.
Hypebae had the chance to speak to Jean Paul Gaultier's creative director Florence Tétier to learn more about "Cyber," the brand's affinity with the art of cinema, sources of inspiration and what's next for the iconic house.
Keep scrolling to read our exclusive interview.
Why is the art of film so important to the Maison?
It's true to Mr. Gaultier's own taste, who is passionate about cinema. His love for marinières comes from Fassbinder's "Querelle" for instance, or he created the infamous costumes for Luc Besson's "The 5th element."
How crucial is it to incorporate JPG's heritage into contemporary projects?
It's my mission, to dig into Mr. Gaultier's archives and bring them back to the contemporary context through the eyes of many talents with a different lens. It's an ever-ending source, it's so inspiring!
What are some of the '90s elements still being incorporated into the latest films?
The surrealistic yet fun vibe.
Why Cyber? What do you want your audience to feel and take away from the film?
Just a great open and inclusive feast that you are invited to.
How important was it to collaborate with La Manso? What similarities do you share as fashion leaders?
We share the same values. She's smart, talented, fun and easy to work with, it's the dream collaboration. It's very important from my perspective to include young talents.
What does the laser cut technique bring to the Maison's tailoring heritage?
It's a technique Mr. Gaultier has used a lot in the past, especially in the "Cyberbaba" collection back in 1995. I feel it's super modern yet makes you think of a classic, detailed lace work.
What was it like carrying out an open casting? What was the most special part about it?
To be honest, I was not emotionally ready. So many people came to share their stories, it was really moving. JPG is part of their lives and he has helped them in so many ways. Also, a lot of people were touched by the fact that we opened the doors and that they could be a part of the Gaultier history.
Finally, what does the future of JPG look like?
Bright, open and joyful, just like the man himself.
This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.