Here’s How to Break in Your Dr. Martens Boots Easily and Painlessly
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Dr. Martens has been making sleek and durable boots since the early days of punk rock, and while styles may change, their signature look remains a footwear staple. Whether it’s RS cover star Kristen Stewart sporting Oxfords out on the street, or Olivia Rodrigo hiding a pair of Dr. Martens Jadon Platform Boots under her floor-length gown at the Grammys this year, these kicks don’t seem to be going away anytime soon. You can dress them up or down, but because of their rugged soles and leather material, they’ll be able to handle year-round wear — you’ll just have to break them in first.
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It’s no secret that Dr. Martens boots can take a day (or two) to wear in, but that break-in period is the stuff of legend, for better or worse. Softening the leather of your shoes by taking them for a walk around the block sounds sounds all well and good until you’re bandaging up bleeding heels. Transforming that supple leather from rigid and tough to cushy and comfortable is no easy feat, but getting that custom-molded feel around your feet? Oh so worth it.
The best ways to break in your Docs (and yes, that means everything from classic combat boots to smooth loafers) with minimal pain and suffering might involve getting a little physical, but it’s easier than you might think. Looking cool is just as important as feeling good on your feet, and there are plenty of little things you can try to ease in those first few wears. But which methods actually work? Can you really wear in your boots by sticking them in the bath? And what’s the deal with Wonder Balsam?
We chose these methods based on the experience of several Docs-wearers around the RS office, along with recommendations from DM themselves. So grab your heavy duty socks and slather on some leather conditioner, because we’re putting comfort and support first — this is how to break in your Dr. Marten boots so you won’t want to kick these off before the end of festival season.
1. Try a Tin of Leather Conditioner
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A leather balm is meant to nourish even the most dried-out leather (like that crackly vintage leather jacket you just thrifted), but it’s a known fact that well-treated leather is much easier to break in. Think of it like a deep condition for your boots, and to make sure that material stays hydrated and supple, you’ll want to condition your boots with a shoe protector like Cobbler’s Choice, or Dr. Martens own Wonder Balsam.
“Our balsam is formulated to nourish, condition and soften DM’s leathers, so it’s no surprise that it can come in handy when you’re looking to tame a new pair. Rub some into the inside of your boot to get the ball rolling,” says Dr. Martens team.
2. Get the Right Pair of Socks
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Every pair of Docs needs a standout pair of socks, but those cute ankle socks are just not going to cut it when it comes to your first few days of boot-breaking. Getting a thicker pair or even doubling up on pairs of crew-length socks will give you the one-two punch of 1) helping stretch out the shoe’s upper while 2) helping shield your feet from that dreaded rubbing around the ankle area.
If you don’t own any thick, winter socks, Dr. Marten offers special “Doc Socks” that are designed to give you a little extra padding and slip resistance in key friction points, like the heel, ankle and arch. “You might find they make a world of difference during those first few days,” says Dr. Martens.
3. Heel Grips Are Your Best Friend
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The top of the heel is often the spot that gives people the most trouble, especially if you’re breaking in a low-back pair of loafers. One easy hack is to preemptively stick on a blister bandaid, with the cushy hydrocolloid gel creating a barrier between your skin and the tough leather, so you can wear your boots without shredding your heels. Cushioned heel inserts are also another way to go, and they can also help with fit if you’ve accidentally sized up.
Dr. Martens recommends these kinds of sticky heel grips saying, “our easy-to-insert heel pads tackle the issue head-on — giving the back of your feet a bit of breathing room while the rest of the boot softens up.”
4. Utilize a Hairdryer
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Before you start trying to stick your shoes in a hot bath, you can use warmth to soften the leather and make it easier to stretch out your shoes, but let’s be smart about it here. With a hairdryer like this one set to medium heat, you can give your boots the blow-dry treatment and focus hot air on those extra-tight spots.
Just be careful about applying too much heat to any one area of your shoes for too long — not only are you going to want to do this while you’re wearing the shoes so it contours to the shape of your feet (with a pair of thick socks on!), but getting too close can actually burn the leather on the shoe. Remember to take breaks and keep the blow dryer at least six inches away, and don’t forget to finish with some hydrating leather conditioner.
5. Manually Stretch It Out
Let’s get physical! Look, we all know that if you trudge around in your brand-new leather boots, eventually, the material is going to soften up — but a great way to kick-start the breaking-in process without even getting on your feet is by manually working that leather. “Massaging your footwear with your hands will simulate the effect your feet have on the leather when you first start stomping around,” says Dr. Martens. “The more you work it, the more the leather will soften.”
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While you can always crank them out with shoe stretchers like these, even something as simple as a soda can or a wadded up ball of newspaper can work to widen the leather upper of your boots. “When you’re not wearing your boots, you can keep working the uppers by filling them with something in place of your feet. Try it overnight for best results.”
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