How to Look Like You Rolled Out of Bed with Perfect Skin
By Sophia Panych
By now we’re all familiar with no-makeup makeup. We saw it at more than half of the spring 2015 fashion shows, with a few designers taking it to the extreme and sending models down the runway with literally no makeup. Let’s get real, though. Appearing as if you’re not wearing a speck of makeup isn’t the same as not wearing a speck of makeup. Especially if you’re not a 16-year-old Eastern European who won the genetic lottery. When I leave the house without anything on my face, I look pretty rough. Like, I-just-raged-all-night-with-a-bottle-of-tequila rough. (OK, maybe not that bad, but you get the picture.) The right tricks, however, can make you look like you rolled out of bed with flawless skin, bright eyes, and naturally rosy lips. Lucky for you, we’ve got them all right here.
Start fresh. “This look is 50 percent makeup, 50 percent skin care, because well-hydrated skin looks so luminous,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux once told me backstage at a Balmain show. And Pecheux’s prep routine is no joke. He starts by massaging the skin with a few drops of Rodin Olio Lusso, followed by a serum and a classic moisturizer. It sounds crazy, but there’s actually a method to his madness: Dermatologists say layering multiple skin-care products traps more active ingredients against your skin, so every product you use works better (which means better-looking skin).
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Even things out. Before you reach for the foundation, try a primer with a hint of pink for fair skin (like Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Primer) or lavender for medium to dark skin (such as Clinique Superprimer for Sallowness). If redness is your problem (like me) go for a green-tinted primer (I use Make Up For Ever HD Microperfecting Primer in Green). If you’re in your 20s, a thin layer all over may be all you need. If you’re old enough to no longer get carded, you’ll still be able to wear less foundation if you start with primer.
Use foundation as concealer. Since foundation is more sheer than concealer, it will give you coverage without looking too makeup-y. “Smooth a dot or two under your eyes and around your nostrils,” says makeup artist Susie Sobol. Then blend it around the inner corners of your eyes, where the bridge of your nose can cast shadows. If the idea of going out with this little makeup gives you a panic attack, put one more drop of foundation on your sponge or fingertip and press it over any areas that need more coverage. “The dabbing motion adds more pigment than spreading,” says Pecheux.
Glow, don’t flush. If your skin is normal to dry, go for a cream blush without any shimmer. If your skin is oily, use powder blush and a domed, densely packed brush. Either way, look for a muted pink or berry tone that looks a little dull in the pot. Trust us, on your skin it’s the best option. Choose a pinkish-nude for fair skin (like Aerin Multi Color for Lips and Cheeks), a coral-brown for olive skin (try Stila Convertible Color in Camellia), or a deep burgundy for dark skin (we like Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Chocolate Cherry). In a pinch, you can always swirl blush and matte bronzer together to create a more natural-looking shade.
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Rethink highlighter. Pick cream over powder; the latter tends to look chalky. Choose champagne for fair skin, gold for olive skin, or copper or bronze for dark complexions. Spread it over your cheekbones with your fingers, then brush a light layer of translucent powder on top—a trick makeup artist Pat McGrath uses to make skin look dewy, not shimmery. If that sounds like a lot of work, tap a clear balm over your cheekbones. “It reflects the light and creates a pretty glow without any sparkle or color,” says makeup artist Lucia Pieroni.
Don’t forget your lips. A sheer tinted balm, like Smith’s Rosebud Salve, is the easiest way to boost your natural lip color. But if your lips are naturally quite pale, try a sheer lip crayon or a lipstick a touch darker than your natural lip color. However, don’t apply lipstick straight from the tube. It will look too intense when you want to look bare-faced. Instead, swipe a finger over the top of the bullet and press the color on your mouth.
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photo: Kyle Ericksen/WWD
