How to Handle “Chicken Skin”

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Photo: Thomas C Card/Trunk Archive

The nickname “chicken skin” might be slightly amusing, but the uneven texture and angry red bumps that accompany keratosis pilaris are anything but.  It’s a genetic condition, says Los Angeles-based dermatologist Dr. Jessica Wu, MD, in which hair follicles get clogged with dead skin cells, but it can be agitated by everything from hay fever to asthma. So can you do anything about it?

Dr. Wu says there’s no cure that can make it go away once and for all, but there are things you can do to diminish the condition. She advises using products that contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and/or urea to manage the situation. “Products with these ingredients can slough off the dead skin and help even the texture,” she says, naming AmLactin Cerapeutic Therapy Restoring Body Lotion ($19) and Neutrogena Body Clear Body Wash ($6), both of which are easily obtained over the counter. “The acids help break down the dead skin and help the pores expel it more easily.”

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“You can use a washcloth or a loofah to help the pores expel the skin and to prevent the plugs from forming or getting worse, which improves the overall texture to a softer, smoother consistency,” she adds.

A note of warning: don’t overdo it. “People try to squeeze or pop the raised bumps because they think it’s acne and/or they try to scrub them off. None of these tactics work; they end up making them look more red and inflamed.”

We’ve talked about texture, but what about redness? “The redness is a big deal because it’s a sign the hair follicles have become inflamed, which causes them to look red,” says Dr. Wu. “This is also why it’s best not to scrub; it makes the red bumps more noticeable. Steam baths or long hot showers and/or baths make the redness stand out more, so limit your exposure to heat.”

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As winter approached, Dr. Wu says the easiest way to get a jump start on calming the bumps is by staying hydrated. “The bumps from the condition tend to be worse in the winter: the drier the skin, the more noticeable the bumps are, so be sure to use the lotion to keep your skin hydrated.” Make sure to apply your lotion just out of the shower, to lock in the moisture.

If your condition is extreme, Dr. Wu suggests letting your dermatologist help. “If someone has a serious case, I can always prescription-strength Retin A, which can help the skin shed faster along with light chemical peels in the office.”